mikethevaper
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Posts posted by mikethevaper
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So I had posted yesterday about nickel and had that problem resolved. But since I have run into another issue. Currently I'm running a .21 ohm nickel and kanthal twisted build. When I put it into nickel mode it atomatically switches back to standard mode. I have no idea why. Please help! I was really looking into having some fun with nickel but so far it's been the most frustrating thing when it come to vaping
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If you're getting a burnt taste and your cotton isn't the culprit, then it has to be that your juice doesn't like the temperature that you've set for a limit. Try backing it down to 400°F and bring it up from there until it's warm enough for your taste but doesn't taste burnt.
BTW - Although it won't hurt anything, It's not necessary to set your wattage so high (60W) because as soon as your mod hits its temp limit, you should notice that it will start throttling your power back to maintain the temp limit.
Also, the reason that TC still works with twisted Kanthal A1 and nickel wire is because current travels the path of least resistance, which in this case is the nickel wire.
Thanks!! I'll try that! What's the wattage you would recommend?
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Currently I'm using a Joytech Evic VT and I had just tried my hand at nickel coils. I really had trouble but I found a video that you could twist kanthal and nickel. I did that with 24g kanthal and 30g nickel. I built a single coil at .16 ohms running it at 520F and at 60w. It still is temp controlled even with the kanthal but I get a very burnt taste. But it doesn't burn the cotton and you can run it very low on juice. There are no hot spots and the coils are spaced evenly. Does anybody have a fix for this? Or what I'm doing wrong. Thanks in advance.
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Vapor is produced by the VG content.
Flavor (and throat-hit) is carried by the PG content.
Therefore, in order to maximize vapor, you diminish flavor... to get a little better flavor, you sacrifice vapor.
50/50 juices are the best of both worlds, but nowhere near producing room-filling-fog from a single hit
To me, anything with more VG content than 30/70 PG/VG juices have little flavor (and a sweet glycerine flavor, which I can't stand).So, the "unicorn" of maximum, thick vapor, with a pinnacle of flavor... does not exist... you have to sacrifice one for the other, and find the balance you can live with for your personal satisfaction.
Will I get as much vapor production out of a higher ohm coil because of surface area?
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Will I get as much vapor production?
For the juices I vape, I prefer 0.8 Ohms or higher in my RDAs. The flavor is better (not hot/burnt/harsh), and the battery lasts MUCH longer because you're pulling fewer Amps on each hit.
I can see (understand) the need to run <0.25 Ohms if you're chasing clouds, but just because you CAN go super-sub-ohm, doesn't mean you have to
One of my favorite analogies ... Just because your car's speedometer registers up to 200mph, doesn't mean you have to floor-it and DO 200mph every time you pull out of the driveway . To me, one of my favorite dripping juices seems to peak flavor around the 1.0 Ohm range with my RDAs (and 1.4 -1.6 Ohms in my RTA), but your rig and juice may peak flavor at different levels... not all set-ups (or preferences) are equal (thankfully, lol)
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So I have been subohming on a mech since around Christmas, I just got an istick 50w and am in love!! (so much battery life)
I just threw a build on that I had been using on my mech it reads at .2, and have been using the whole 50watts or so it says I have because its probably past the amp limit. If I built at lets say .5-.7 would I get a better vape because of surface area? My definition of a better vape is a denser warmer vape with more flavor.
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That's high on the amp limit but to each it's own.
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Your gonna have to buy some more mods to fill it up.
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Ummm.... sorry, not sure what you meant by that. 30G is good for what you want on an mvp though.
I meant I'm using an ohm meter. Not that I am an ohm meter.
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The biggest issue you will have with dual coils IMO is the sheer size of the coils to give you a resistance that your mvp will handle well. I'd have to recomend useing a single microcoil and getting it to work well with the coil build and wicking. The mvp has a good battery life but is limited when it comes to amps and dual coils will take a toll on the device. No reason you shouldn't be able to get an rda to work well with the mvp, but it's still not a mech mod at the end of the day. 1.2-1.5 should get you some decent vapor if built well and wicked right. Trial and error. Would be the same learning curve with a mech too. You just have some safegaurds built into your device now.
How are you measuring your resistance? What guage wire? Sorry, you may have already said, I didn't read the whole thread. Thanks
I'm a ohm meter and I'm using 30G wire.
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The MVP can only go to 11 watts right? You'll want to find the optimum resistance for that. I don't know how low they fire but I'd build around 1.5 like you did. Wicking looks much better but your coil leads are too long. It will take longer to heat and not fire as well like that. Try to get it up close to the posts without touching and shorten up the distance of your wire leads between the wraps and posts. Also don't do the coil at an angle like that. You should stick a screwdriver in it and straighten it out. There are more advance builds like the dragon coil where you will angle your coil and wick it a certain way to achieve good results but with a simple single microcoil and device like yours you want the coil horizontal and your airflow hole lined up with the coil. You want that air intake to pass over the coil and that area under the coil to have a little pocket of air and no wick. You still want to kind of tuck your wick ends under it and down to the juice well but kind of like an inverse U shape. Leave a little gap directly under the coil so air can flow.
Here's a couple pics of a build I'm about to redo. Maybe that will help with coil positioning and what I mean with the wicking.
I'll definitely make it much straighter next time with shorter leads, but do you guys know how to put a dual coil on just two posts, its so hard to do.
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thats what it looks like now.
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Ok kept building coils to get it to 1.5 finally and the vapor production is much better. But the hits tastes like lo mein noodles. And it's organic cotton and was boiled.
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I just built one at 1.9 ohms and the vapor production didn't really change.
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Get some flavors from MBV and see if you like them (15ml). When you find one that could be your all day vape pick up a 236ml bottom for like $45. My personal favorites are Moo Juice, Sticky Bun and Rootbeer.
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I said it was 2.3 ohms in my original post. And I'm using it on a MVP 2.0.Go slow, 50/50 is going to make a difference and that's pretty low ohm seriously, try a simple build at a bit higher ohms and go to Walmart and get some pure VG juice.
What are you using your igo on?
Did you check coil on an ohm meter?
Seriously it helps.
If your not drilled for airflow at .2 ohms its gotta be a hot Vape.
Watch a few of rip trippers vids on youtube, he's got some good ideas.
Please be careful.
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A lot can effect the performance but as long as you practice and use safe batteries as well as an ohm meter to check for a short and your resistance you'll get there in short time. I would watch a lot of build tutorial vids on youtube. I also suggest a torch and ceramic tip tweezers to squeeze your coils gentle and heat to compress. After a while you'll be so good at wrapping them you'll only need the torch to use on your kanthal before you wrap. Much easier that way it takes a lot of the springiness out of the wire before you work with it. When you get good at wrapping you can just fire the coil before you wick it (after you check the resistance of course to make sure it's safe) and then compress the coils after you have mounted it.
30g is pretty high resistance. You can move down to lower gauge when you get comfortable. Once you're good with 28g you can go lower if you like. Airflow and wicking are the biggest factors for vapor production. As well as the juice you're using. Use higher VG for more vapor. It looks like you have too much cotton in your wick. You want it to fill the inside of the coil but still move freely when you pull on it. Then the ends only need to be long enough to tuck under and hit the bottom of the juice well. Less wick gives you more airflow but not enough wick will have you getting dry hits quickly. It's a balance.
I did torch them before and get them as close together as possible. And I'm not using a mech. I only have 50/50 juice, I'd like to get some higher VG juice, but I spend my vape budget for this month.
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It's a Igo L, I attempted to do dual stacked coils but It just wasn't working. Got the bottom coil to fire but not the top. And it was a pita to even get them on the posts
It's a Igo L, I attempted to do dual stacked coils but It just wasn't working. Got the bottom coil to fire but not the top. And it was a pita to even get them on the posts
What kinda of RDA, airflow can be a issue and yes dual can affect it as well.
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This is my first build. It's 30g and is reading about 2.3 ohms
But, I'm not getting as much vapor as I thought I would of a RDA. Is it because it's just a single coil? Or because it doesn't have that great of airflow?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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I think it said in the PDF that I downloaded, it said 3 amps was its limit.
Personally, I'm amazed the protection circuitry (limiters) would allow the unit to even fire with a coil lower than 1.0 Ohms... and I'm pretty sure unless they "changed" something, it didn't happen
The MVP limits/stops at 5V or 11W. Using ANY coil below 0.99 Ohms, regardless of Voltage or Wattage setting, the unit will (should) only fire at the lowest available voltage, 3.3V, yielding the upper-limit (highest power setting) of 11W, and drawing 3.33A. Like I said, "should fire", but my guess is the protection circuitry would register a fault and prevent a sub-ohm coil from firing.
I have no idea on the battery inside these things, but I would assume it to be a 7A battery at a minimum, and likely a 10A to reduce heat generated by max loads?
My MVP 2 that I sold would fire a .4 coil.
Do you know what the amps were?
Also do any of you know how you can put a DNA 20 chip in the mvp and a better battery.
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I was on youtube to see who tried to sub ohm a Itaste MVP 2.0 and it seems that people are going all the way down to .7 ohm, which at 5 volts would be about 7 amps, and the amp limit is 3.0 for the device. Is this safe or at all possible?
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What is it on? Hana?
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It's not hard to rebuild single coil protanks.
Nickel... Joytech VT...
in General Vaping Discussion
Posted
With nickel it jumps around with heat but I have the ohms locked in at room temp. All of the connections are tight and I'm using a tug boat. I put a new build in it and it seems to be working okay now. I really don't know what the issue was.