eLCruz
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Posts posted by eLCruz
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If the tank that came with it reads correctly, the problem may be the subtank base. I have a subtank plus and use nickel coils on it on my evic vtc mini and get exact ohm readings. So there may be something wrong with the subtank coil base.
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Why not just get a 35 amp efset, the purple one. Better to have an overly capable battery than wonder when its gonna fail.We were discussing new electronic mods in a thread below specifically the ipv4. I was following another conversation on another site the other day about the specific mod I am using the ipv D2. They were discussing the use of a 20 amp battery in this mod. The specifications are .2 ohms to 3 ohms in power mode, and .05 ohm to .3 ohm in temp mode. It goes from 7 - 75 watts in power mode and 10 joules to 50 joules in temp mode. I understand what the joule measurement is, but it makes very little sense to me in this application. I know watts. If I am looking at this correctly the mod can use a .05 ohm coil with a max output of 25 amps which would give you 31 watts.
I have been scared that the mod might draw more from the battery than it could supply, making it dangerous. Today I swapped batteries with a fresh one. It wouldn't work. I pushed the button and either nothing would happen, or the screen would say CHECK BATTERY i just assumed my mod had fallen victim to bad QC or somthing. I was really getting discouraged. I went back to my office, pulled the battery, swapped it....same thing. I was about to give up, when it hit me....turn it down. I turned it from 30 joules to 10 and it worked. Since I don't know how to calculate joules into ohms law I just went with battery voltage. It could have been as much as 19 amps. (.22ohms and 4.2volts) I have a 20amp battery in it. I am really curious to know if this is what is happening. I do not have the tools to measure the output.
Any ideas?
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I only saw one coil when I tore it down. But I guess you could do a parallel. It vapes great with a single too. Glad it helped!
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Here's a link to all things Nautilus... At amazing prices I must say...
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Try this on...
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I ordered my first ego setup online and it took about 5 days to get to me. During those 5 days, I disposed of all things "smoking", lighters, ashtrays, ciggy stashes in house & car, etc. All but one pack! Then I got my first vape mail! I threw out the last of the cigs and started vaping and have not had a cig since... The key I found, is to NOT have cigs around! Go all in! Ever since that day, no more smoking, only vaping! It's been 2 years now... You can do it! Just get rid of the cigs... Best of luck!
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Try using 32g kanthal for those high ohms.
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Check these out, if you're not in a rush to get it you can save a bit
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You only put 1 in at a time. How often you change them depends on the liquid you use, voltage, and frequency of vaping. Many variables... The nautilus is a great atty, I have the big one and intend to get the mini bvc coils for it. It's a great atty, I would go for it
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Gotta get those coils for my nautilus BIG!
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Unless you are using silica, ekowool, or ceramic, as a wick, you should remove the wick before dry burning. Dry burning is used to clean the coil by heating the coil to a red hot temp. All the juice build up will burn away and the coil will look good as the day it was made.
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Watch this…
Micro Coil Build In The Aspire Nautilus:
I don't think you need to worry bout melting…
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Did you check the ohms on the rebuilt coil? I don't think those batteries can handle ohms below a certain level. Probably around 1.2 - 1.5 Ωs minimum. Just a guess, but I would check the ohms on the rebuild before putting it on your new battery… Best of luck!
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Yeah he does, at the begining when hes holding the yellow screwdriver. I believe its 28g kanthal.
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Try this…
Micro Coil Build In The Aspire Nautilus:
Hope it helps. I'm still waiting for mine to get here.
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I have an ITR now with an aerotank which has transformed it into the machine I expected. I bought the ITR partially because the tank is fairly protected, lot of opportunity to break at work.
But it would be nice to have an 18350 based variable wattage machine but I don't want a glass tank on the end.
I have just recently read about the Russian 91% RDA. It sounds like one can get a SS tank. Would it fit the SVD as far as directly screw on?
If so I need to study up on this 91% RDA as the posts about it and the full size are practically books.
This is the SVD with a Kayfun 3.1es on it.
From what I understand, the Russian 91% & the Kayfun are dimensionally identical. Hope this helps...
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Oops wrong aga
Here's the td:
Right now I'm using single coil but I keep the second wick in there to prevent leaks. I just tie it snug with some kanthal till I need it
same applies as I said earlier with the aga t2… google aga td vids, thats how I got the hang of the thing. I was lost too when I got mine! Good luck 
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Here is my aga t2 built:
Mine is drilled out to 5/64ths but th negative for vertical coils is the phillips head closest the wick hole. For horizontal coils its the skinny post with the small phillips head. BTW, I'm using a ceramic wick. Good luck
i just started vapeing
in Variable Voltage & Wattage
Posted
The positive pins sometimes are Wonky on tanks. It may be making a bad / loose connection. I had to extend the positive pin on my herakles tank with a dab of silver solder cause it had a jumpy Resistance.