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How To Make The Perfect RBA Coil

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Posted (edited)

This is a method that I just recently started using, and I've had great success with it:

I start by wrapping my Kanthal around my wick before inserting the wick into the RBA's top deck. I slide the wick down into the wick hole, and then attach the top of the coil to the positive post. Next I gently pull tension on the bottom lead to get any slack out of the coil, and finish by putting the bottom lead of the coil under the negative screw and snugging it down.

This process works best for me because any tension I get when tightening things up is happening at the bottom of the coil, which is where the wick goes through the wick hole, so my wick doesn't move around so much. This process also seems to eliminate hot spots at the top of the coil do to over-tensioning the top lead when attaching it to the positive post.

Try it out and see if this doesn't solve the hot spot problems you've probably been scratching your head over. :yes

Edited by Rixter
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Posted

hey rixter i just got my IGO-W and i can seem to get the piece apart.... is that normal?

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Posted (edited)

hey rixter i just got my IGO-W and i can seem to get the piece apart.... is that normal?

Try screwing it onto a PV first and then twist the cap clockwise and off. I don't own an IGO-W, but I'm pretty sure the cap is held on by two O-rings and not threaded.

586050_300x300.jpg

Edited by Rixter
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Posted

rixter one other question.. is there a difference between kanthal wire and regular beading wire? if there is i wont attempt a build until i get genuine kanthal but i figure if its a matter of manufacturing i would try a build and place an order for some kanthal wire.

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Posted

Excellent Rixter!! That's how I do mine, wrap the wick, and then insert into the wickhole. Fast, painless, easy and the wick stays straight and true without kinks, and the wire hugs the wick just right tight. But, I'm backwards.. I do the negative screw first and then the positive center post, and occasionally get that hot spot that I have to move around. I'll try it your way next time, starting off with the positive center post. Thanks!

oh, and yep, the IGO top cap pulls right off when it's attached to the mod. (confirming)

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Posted

Yeah...you're gonna want to get Kanthal or Nichrome resistance wire. I like 32 gauge for SS wicks on RBAs, but most folks use Nichrome on silica wicked devices.

Since I don't have any experience with silica wicks yet, I can't really steer you in the right direction for the proper gauge of Nichrome resistance wire to use. I'm sure that if you start a post asking that question, you'll get an answer pretty fast, though.

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Posted

it actually came with some 32g wire and a silica wick. so... with 32g wire.... i need to do like 4-5 wraps for a 2.2 ohm coil right?

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Posted (edited)

Excellent Rixter!! That's how I do mine, wrap the wick, and then insert into the wickhole. Fast, painless, easy and the wick stays straight and true without kinks, and the wire hugs the wick just right tight. But, I'm backwards.. I do the negative screw first and then the positive center post, and occasionally get that hot spot that I have to move around. I'll try it your way next time, starting off with the positive center post. Thanks!

Yeah, since I started doing it this way, I've yet to encounter a single hot spot...once the negative screw in snug, you're good to go.

Edited by Rixter
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Posted

it actually came with some 32g wire and a silica wick. so... with 32g wire.... i need to do like 4-5 wraps for a 2.2 ohm coil right?

I get a 1.7Ω coil with a 5/4 wrap of 32g Kanthal around a 2mm SS wick. Your silica wick may take a few more wraps on the coil because it's probably a little bit smaller in diameter once wrapped than 2mm.

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Posted

i got a 2.3 ohm coil with a 5/4 wrap! :) its actually pretty neat. i had a hotspot right on the negative post and i just moved it a little bit and it was perfectly fine. it fired with no problems and i actually got a pretty good vape out of it. :) i am interested in the SS wicks though... so i will have to place a few orders for that and some extra Kanthal wire :)

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