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Popped Switches


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This happened twice now on my mod, the switch blew out. I get a replacement cap on Saturday and the button was blown as soon as I was finished screwing on the cap. I have no idea what happened and it wasn't dropped. The mod is still under warranty. They are installing a new 'higher rated" switch in the mod's cap; so great customer service is going on right now. I wanted to keep quiet because I love the mod, but it might be better to consult the pros here. I ordered the kick for the circuit protection just today and will see if that helps. I tested my battery on the multimeter before screwing on the cap, it read 3.64 volts. I want to make sure I have all my bases covered before the new cap/button arrives.

My question is: what causes a switch to go limp?? I know people using stacked batterys have blown switches, I'm not stacking anything. Just saw Rixter's post (thanx Rix) about the Short Stop and it got me wondering if shorts could have anything to do with control switches; especially a battery that is able to read 3.64 volts on a multimeter?? Thanks in advance for any brainstorming you contribute here.

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The 3.6v battery shouldn't be causing the short, but it's dangerously close to needing to be recharged. I only use the 3.6v during new coils time, to get the hot spots out, and then I change it out for a fresh one when ready to go.

The AMPS is causing the switch to blow... there is either a short in the mod or a short in your atty or your OHMs on your atty is way too low of resistance for your mod. LR likes a lot of amps, which is why LR users usually use a mechanical mod. In fact, on most VV/VW mods, if the LR is too low, you'll get an error reading.

Either shorts or too low of LR can cause AMP overload.

I think you may have had a loose wire in your mod. It happens, even with the best mods out there, from time to time. I'm glad they're replacing it for you!!

A true mechanical mod doesn't have wiring, but instead relies on hot springs. If the battery or atty shorts, the spring will collapse which removes the current. What mod do you have?

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Thanks so much, Uma, for your reply. I was using a Bombshell Stinger and an atty wasn't even screwed into the connection. I literally take it out of the package, screw it on to the tube and it's blown already. No vaping, no atty, just battery and cap, that's it. Just wanna make sure it doesn't happen again when i get my replacement. Not sure how I could mess it up just screwing it on for the first time.

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You might want to try using a different hot spring... Will the Altsmoke Silver Bullet ones fit in it? If the one that is in it isn't a true hot spring, it will fry your switch instead of collapsing the spring. The Silver Bullet hot spring is a good one, so is the ReosMods hot springs.

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Thanks mcquinn, how does the battery hit ground and positive post at the same time??

The way these mods work is there is a threaded connector that you screw into the tube after you put in the 26650 battery. The connector houses the kick but since i had no kick I install a rubber spacer with a brass plug that connects the battery to the cap. So this rubber/brass plug was sitting on my battery at the time I am screwing on the cap. It never was a problem attaching it like this before the button blew the first time. Nor do I know what caused the button to blow out when it did the first time. The second time it blew, they offered me a refund but I really love this mod and willing to try again. So my logic was to add the kick for the short circuit protection.

Thanks again Uma, I am not sure how the spring is attached to the bottom, I will check it out and get back to ya. Do you recommend that I still need to replace the spring even after I add the kick??

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Actually I do. The Kick is only human ( :yes ) and can fail just like the rest of us. With the hotspring on your mod, you will be protected even when your Kick dies of old age. The springs are something like 2 or 3 bucks a piece, not too pricey. Being the huge 26500 mod, the SB spring should fit easily. Actually, I'd be surprised if your Stinger's spring isn't already a hotspring. You might want to ask your Vendor for info on that. It never hurts to have extra springs on hand, regardless,

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Ok Uma, thanks, you really gave some great input!!

My spring is silver in color and can easily pull out with needle nose pliers.

Altsmoke seems to be out of SB/Omega hot springs but I found one for a heliX:

http://www.avidvaper.com/products/HeliX-hot-spring.html

They look the same in the pics but wanted to check here.

Found one for a ProVari too but it looks too thin for my mod.

I emailed the company to ask about the hot spring and if it's a true mechanical mod or not.

I'll keep you posted when I hear back.

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Sometimes a mod will have a small contact for the positive end of the battery to connect to surrounded by a little insulator then the metal housiing which is grounded ,some of the IMR batteries have a larger flat positive contact as opposed to a small button contact which could hit both the positve contact and the metal housing .Only thing I could think of to short one without an atty or carto screwed on.

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You're more than welcome, it's my pleasure to share what others have shared with me over the years. No problem!

The Helix hotspring is perfect! Grab a few, if you can, it's always good to have backups. :) I think I'll grab some for my B.A.M. next payday, to be ready for whatever comes.

The Silver Bullet is considered a Semi-Mechanical mod, because it has wiring but no VV or electronics. The Stinger seems to fall into that category too.

I hope they answer back soon, it would be good to hear their info.

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I got my reply yesterday and the new cap is on it's way for Monday or Tuesady. Here was his reply on the spring and if there were any wires:

The spring in the mod is not a "hot spring". But we do know that if the mod does get hot enough, the spring will collapse (completely flatten out). If you wanted a hot spring, I believe that AltSmoke sells them but they are a little small in diameter for the Stinger. It will slide in and out of the mod easily when you remove your battery. Also, there is no wiring in the mod. The button is directly soldered to the positive inside the cap and the negative comes from the spring in the bottom of the mod.
It sounds like mcquinn (thank you, sir) knows some things about IMR's that I did not. He is correct that the 26650 does have a large flat top positive contact. Hopefully, having the kick instead of the rubber/brass spacer plug saves the new button. I tested the 26650 in the tube and the positive post does not touch anything when i attach the kick housing, it will only be touching the kick.
Any other last minute precautions I should be aware of before the cap arrives?? And yes, Uma, I will be charging the battery before using again thanks to you!! I got a lot of goot info in this thread so thanks for all the help.
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Thanks for sharing his response! (fast and thorough too, I might add).

It still seems strange to me that the switch would blow before the spring would collapse though. The switch itself should be high amped if it's not wired. I'm baffled. In any case, go with the Helix hotspring, (with extras on hand), and it should collapse before blowing the switch. Do they mention the AMP rating of the switch?

haha, yes, it looks like McQuinn must have hit upon the answer. Especially because it blew without the atty attached at all. Baffling!

The Kick, like you said, should definitely help to cover the touching aspect.

Thank goodness we have lots of posters reading various troubleshooting scenarios. I hadn't stumbled upon McQQuinns before until now. (and I still don't understand how it could happen, but I trust his input).

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Thanks mse and ya I know it's crazy this happened but I'm not giving up on it. I so flippin' love the 26650 plus kick thing it's got going on. I got the kick and new cap today but am waiting for my hot springs still in NY. Only thing I haven't changed in this mod is the battery. So as long as the battery isn't somehow wonky, I'll be alright.

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