18MGFog

hmmm ... cotton. I have seen reference to cotton wicking, but did't notice at the time. Easier to coil, stronger, not as subject to breakage as glass fiber. No good for a top-coil tank, a dry hit would probably burn it. Very absorbant. But does it stand up to the heat, and last as long in a bottom-coil tank, as silica? Also, does it require a special brand, type, or manufacturing megthod? Or am i good with a ball of twine from Ace Hardware? VH, F, 18MGFog.

Hey, I never replied to a topic before. I like the way it is arranged, with the latest post immediately beneath the reply box. Very convenient. Anyway, I have tried a sewing needle also, and a hat pin, too. Works fine, but does not have a handle. The paper clip is about the same guage as the pin. Bent out at 90 degrees, i have a pin with a handle. By leaving the pin in while I fix the leads, I can tug on the leads. This straightens them, and also draws the coil a little tighter around the wick. Taking the pin out after fixing the leads, the wick can fluff out and take up the excess space. My T3 has been in service more than a week, with consistently good vape and no scorching. The EVOD, a few days. No matter what atomizer i use, and whether it is out of the box or rebuilt, I get gurgling when the tank is down to about half. I think this is probably universal. I suspect it is because fluid will not compress or expand, but air will. When the tank is full, taking a hit will not expand the contents of the tank, and only the wick will bring in more fluid. But when there is a volume of air in the tank, taking a hit introduces a vacuum around the wick, causing the air in the tank to expand and forcing a little bit of juice into the wick-chamber. The only way to beat this, so I believe, is to refill as soon as I hear a gurgle. Vape Happy. Your friend, 18 Milligram Fog

EVOD came with 2.4 ohm. Vapor was thin, because my standard 1100-mah KGO wouldn't light it very well. Got wire with 16.151 ohm per ft, works out to about .0529888 ohm per mm. Bent out a paper clip, to steady my wick and to act as a handle. Laid 4 strips of 1 mm wick. Wrapped with 4 turns of wire. Put the leads through, with the paper clip still in the wick, so I could pull the wire straight without deforming the wick. Assembled the rubber bushing, inserted the pin, removed the paper clip, and placed the cap-pin over the wick, then the rubber cap to complete.. Trimmed the wick and tested. Major increase in vapor production. I don't have an ohm-meter, but don't care what the reading is, because this works so well that i will use the same method every time I build a wick. I don't think this was a fluke, because it is the second time I have done this. The first was with a T3, with the same result. Vape Happy. Your friend, 18 Milligram Fog.

I'd like to try either stainless steel mesh, or metal foam, as a wick. I have seen it done in videos, and it seems to work fine ... but I can't believe what I'm seeing. What prevents the coil from being short-circuited, from the first turn to the last turn, right across the metal wick? When voltage is applied, what actually happens in the coil and in the wick?

I have tried rebuilding CE4, but the rubber bushing is too short, and my coil shorts to ground. Have succeeded in rebuilding Kanger T3, but need to tinker sometimes, and there is less room to work than I would like. Has anyone experminted with several rebuilds, and found one that is Really EASY? Thanks!