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Dumb Question...


Bax

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If I have a Mod that requires two 3.7v batteries, does that mean my available voltage is then 7.4v?

 

I've been experimenting with different builds on my new dripbox 160 which shows the voltage I'm drawing. A few of the builds that require a higher wattage of course draws higher voltage, and I end up ripping the coils out and trying something else because I'm not sure if it's safe.

 

Hopefully what I asked makes sense, and isn't too stupid.

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Which mod is it?  Do the batteries both go in the same direction, or one up, one down?

If they go the same direction, chances are you are running parallel (but not always true)... which is still just 3.7V (same as one battery), but you are doubling the Amp-limit by spreading the load across both batteries.  If they are one up / one down, then they are likely in series, which means you are getting the output of 7.4V, but the Amp-limit stays the same as an individual battery because you're not spreading the load.  Make sense?

Also, what batteries are you using? Brand/model?

What is the typical Wattage you're running?

When using a two (or three) battery device, it is best to label the batteries and keep them "married" (A1/A2, B1/B2, C1/C2, etc)... and to rotate their position in the mod each time you swap a married set, so the same battery is not always in the same position inside the mod.

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2 hours ago, Bax said:

I've been experimenting with different builds on my new dripbox 160 which shows the voltage I'm drawing. A few of the builds that require a higher wattage of course draws higher voltage, and I end up ripping the coils out and trying something else because I'm not sure if it's safe

I can't find the specs for the dripbox, but I have a Kanger 160w Kbox, which probably uses the same chip. The batteries are in series, which ups the volts to 7.4 (8.4 for fully charged batteries). In TC mode it will fire a coil down to .05 ohms, in power mode it will fire down to .1 ohm, if your coil is built below this the mod will not fire. I believe the dripbox stock coil is .25, which means it uses 2 .5 coils in parallel. You will eventually settle on a coil that meets your needs, and preferences.

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It's the Kanger Dripbox 160.

 

Batteries are Sony VTC5 2600mah 30A which are in series on this mod.

 

Wattage varies depending on the atty I'm using. I started out with a Tobeco Velocity Mini clone, and with a plain .2-.3ohm dual coil build on 26ga kanthal, I'd have to crank it up to 60watts or higher. That would have the voltage up around 4.2 if I recall correctly.

 

If I run an identical build on my Tsunami, I can run the wattage down at 37.5, I'm only drawing 3.15v. and get the same vape as the Velocity at 60watts.

 

Was just curious. I'm running them both for the time being to switch between flavors. I like the Velocity. But this Tsunami is really growing on me the more I use it. I plan to get a Tsunami Plus when they start selling them later this month.

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This is a regulated mod, which means it will adjust the Voltage according to the Wattage you have selected and the resistance of the coil... Ohm's Law will always apply... Resistance of the coil is a constant... you set Wattage and Voltage auto-adjusts, or if you set Voltage, Wattage auto-adjusts.

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Using 2 different tanks means there are variables, even when you use the same coil there is a issue of airflow, which is important. Also different flavors need different power levels, even when you use the same PG/VG ratios. If you use different PG/VG ratios the power needed is a lot different,

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I'm still learning as far as rebuildables go and what works best with each atty. Got coil making down fairly well and can turn out consistent coils that need minimal tweaking once they're on the atty. I definitely like the Tsunami better, though. Seems like the air coming from under the coils is making the most difference in performance.

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