vapez Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 i am looking for a new tank. i started vaping a few months ago and not happy with my current tank. i am looking for one with the best cloud production. i am an ex smoker for about a month now and would like to keep it that way, please help keep me interested in vaping! thanks alot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 What tank are you using? Need some details. What are you currently using? Most importantly, what juice are you using and what nicotine level? Post some pics. Entertain us ! Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Bebop said: What tank are you using? Need some details. What are you currently using? Most importantly, what juice are you using and what nicotine level? Post some pics. Entertain us ! 1 hour ago, Bebop said: What tank are you using? Need some details. What are you currently using? Most importantly, what juice are you using and what nicotine level? Post some pics. Entertain us ! i am currently using a eleaf istick 20w. it is really just kinda **** and the juice is a candy flavor my friend gave me its 30 pg 70vg. i am going to buy a mod to go with the new tank in a few weeks so i dont have the ****ty eleaf at all anymore. i think i will by a 50 - 80w mod. im not worrying about the mod right now, just a tank. im out of town right now and do not have it with me, so i dont have pictures, but you can look it up obviously Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 The tank we'd recommend would also depend on what mod you want to put it on. For the best performance, you'd want to pair the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 i would probobaly buy the eleaf istick 100w tc or the smok mini Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 The istick 20w is just the battery. It doesnt tell me what tank you have but no biggie Im kind of assuming you won't be building your own coils. There are half a dozen popular sub ohm tanks with little variances. You'll pay $25-$35 just for the tanks. Coils will run you $10-15 per pack (5). Take your pick. Don't go too cheap. Ive been using the youde zephyrus tanks and kanger sub minis for a long time. Tgey are both direct to lung tanks, not great mouth to lung so if you're not used to that you may want to go with Nautilus or Atlantis style tanks. In a sub ohm tank you wont want to vape any more than 6mg nic. Higher vg gives more clouds but mutes flavor. My happy place is 3mg nic in a 30/70 or 40/60 on a .8 coil at about 20watts but varies with different juices. I have a couple of other dripping atomizers for playing around but the above is my daily go to. There is a lot of variation and you can make just about anything work. Just stay away from cheap stuff off ebay and have a go. Best of luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 thanks alot for the help, i will learn more about building coils and now know what tank to buy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 8 minutes ago, Bebop said: Ive been using the youde zephyrus tanks and kanger sub minis for a long time. Tgey are both direct to lung tanks, not great mouth to lung so if you're not used to that you may want to go with Nautilus or Atlantis style tanks. Hey, Bebop, are you building your own coils on those or using stock coils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bebop Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I build all my own coils. I just get better performance and they last longer. Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRSpivey Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 As far as Mods go, if you don't mind the size I would suggest that you have a look at the Wismec Reuleaux RX200. You can find them for around $40-$45. They are a 200 Watt 3-18650 battery Mod. For any regulated Mod I would recommend Samsung 18650 25R5s (~$5 ea.), get a set of them for the Mod and another set to have charged and ready to swap out. You should also pick up a 18650 4-bay charger (~$30). Another Mod I like is the Joyetech Cuboid 150 or 200 (2-18650s). Both Mods will cover you well for nearly any Temperature Control (TC) and Wattage Vaping as you go foreward. My tank preferences have advanced but you could go for an Aspire Nautilus (tighter draw, less air flow) for around $28. I like direct lung with easy unrestricted draw so I like FreeMax Starre Pro tank (they come with TC, Ni200, coils only so if you want straight wattage you will have to buy some Kanthal coils). Vapeston Magnus is also a good tank. I also have some Aspire Atlantis tanks as well. VaporTron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 3 hours ago, MRSpivey said: As far as Mods go, if you don't mind the size I would suggest that you have a look at the Wismec Reuleaux RX200. You can find them for around $40-$45. They are a 200 Watt 3-18650 battery Mod. For any regulated Mod I would recommend Samsung 18650 25R5s (~$5 ea.), get a set of them for the Mod and another set to have charged and ready to swap out. You should also pick up a 18650 4-bay charger (~$30). Another Mod I like is the Joyetech Cuboid 150 or 200 (2-18650s). Both Mods will cover you well for nearly any Temperature Control (TC) and Wattage Vaping as you go foreward. My tank preferences have advanced but you could go for an Aspire Nautilus (tighter draw, less air flow) for around $28. I like direct lung with easy unrestricted draw so I like FreeMax Starre Pro tank (they come with TC, Ni200, coils only so if you want straight wattage you will have to buy some Kanthal coils). Vapeston Magnus is also a good tank. I also have some Aspire Atlantis tanks as well. yeah i looked at that mod and have heard really good things about it. but i dont like that it has 200w, that is a bit to high for me and a bit over my head. btw i dont mind size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRSpivey Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 It won't go that high unless you set it there. I usually vape anywhere from 25W to 50W 95% of the time. The other 5% is 15 to 18 Watts and 65 to 75 Watts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 15 minutes ago, MRSpivey said: It won't go that high unless you set it there. I usually vape anywhere from 25W to 50W 95% of the time. The other 5% is 15 to 18 Watts and 65 to 75 Watts 15 minutes ago, MRSpivey said: It won't go that high unless you set it there. I usually vape anywhere from 25W to 50W 95% of the time. The other 5% is 15 to 18 Watts and 65 to 75 Watts oh ok, but then what is the point of getting a 200w mod where you need to buy 3 batteries if you dont go up that high. you can buy a 100w mod with 1 or 2 batteries! whats the point, arent you just waisting money by doing that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRSpivey Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 First, I operate between 25% and 50% of the design capacity and I figure that operating there is putting less stress on the mod ever would result in it lasting longer. Second, with 3 batteries, although they be in series, will last longer and give you more vape time. This is a result of a bucking circuit in the mod that bucks the voltage town so that way you get a little bit longer life out of the battery. iQuit 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 oh ok yeah thats cool. thanks for explaining that. so i guess than 2 or 3 batteries is better than 1 even if the power output/watts are swimilar MRSpivey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRSpivey Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 My single battery mods don't even last 3-4 hours. I had to carry two extra charged batteries to work to get home. I had four batteries to get through the day. Of course that's with me using a 0.5 ohm coil. The higher the resistance of the coil the lower the wattage will be and consequently the longer the battery (ies) will last. I just don't like the higher ohm coils mainly because I've generally found them to have a more restrictive draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 wow thats crazy. i didnt know they would last that short. i thought it usually lasts a day, but i guess the resistance is a big part in it to then MRSpivey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRSpivey Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Yes, yes it does! Power=Voltage×Current, and Voltage=CurrentxResistance Ohm's Law Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 6 hours ago, vapez said: wow thats crazy. i didnt know they would last that short. i thought it usually lasts a day, but i guess the resistance is a big part in it to then 3 hours ago, MRSpivey said: Yes, yes it does! Power=Voltage×Current, and Voltage=CurrentxResistance Ohm's Law Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod. The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery. You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately. Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode. For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner. Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery. The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode) In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer. Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer. Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist) The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts = 13.5 Amps. The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts. We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient. The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series. At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts. So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries. I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod. Watts you have it set to makes the difference. *most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long. Tam, Earthling789 and MRSpivey 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRSpivey Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod. The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery. You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately. Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode. For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner. Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery. The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode) In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer. Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer. Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist) The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts = 13.5 Amps. The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts. We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient. The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series. At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts. So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries. I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod. Watts you have it set to makes the difference. *most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long. Thank you for elaborating and pointing him to Steam-Engine! You are correct. I was trying to keep it simple. However, resistance does matter. Simply put, if you leave the wattage the same and change coil resistance you will have an unsatisfactory vape. Say you have a 0.5 ohm coil (24 ga Kanthal, 1/8" ID) running at 30 Watts. Steam-Engine shows a Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2. Now change the resistance to 1.2 ohms. Steam-Engine now shows a Heat Flux of 110 mW/mm^2. To get the same Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2 you have to change the wattage to 72 Watts. Therefore, with everything unchanged except the resistance (# of wraps) you will have to change the wattage by 42 watts to get the same Heat Flux. Granted, this only addresses the temperature of the vape and due to the increased number of wraps you will have greater surface area contact with the wicking which will increase the amount of vapor being produced.The simple point I am trying to make is that resistance does matter significantly, as well as a number of other factors. A person can go as deep into it as they want. It's a great hobby as well as a great alternative to analog smokes. It really comes down to finding your personal preference. As you continue to vape your preference may change (well, mine did as well as a multitude of other Vapers). My suggestions are based upon my journey and trying to recommend something that would minimize potential future purchases and provide a satisfying vaping experience for the longest time possible.With all that's been said, the OP may find that getting an Aspire Nautilus tank would be all that's needed to get a satisfying vape with their 20 Watt Mod... for now. I still have one myself and still use it ocasionally, although I've increased the air flow by drilling the largest air intake hole larger as well as drilling the coil positive pin air flow larger as well.The OP was asking about a tank that had greater vapor production... it would help if we knew what they had right now. I may have missed it but I don't recall the OP ever saying. All I know is that the OP has a 20 Watt istick Mod that they aren't thrilled with. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 10 hours ago, MRSpivey said: Thank you for elaborating and pointing him to Steam-Engine! You are correct. I was trying to keep it simple. However, resistance does matter. Simply put, if you leave the wattage the same and change coil resistance you will have an unsatisfactory vape. Say you have a 0.5 ohm coil (24 ga Kanthal, 1/8" ID) running at 30 Watts. Steam-Engine shows a Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2. Now change the resistance to 1.2 ohms. Steam-Engine now shows a Heat Flux of 110 mW/mm^2. To get the same Heat Flux of 265 mW/mm^2 you have to change the wattage to 72 Watts. Therefore, with everything unchanged except the resistance (# of wraps) you will have to change the wattage by 42 watts to get the same Heat Flux. Granted, this only addresses the temperature of the vape and due to the increased number of wraps you will have greater surface area contact with the wicking which will increase the amount of vapor being produced. The simple point I am trying to make is that resistance does matter significantly, as well as a number of other factors. A person can go as deep into it as they want. It's a great hobby as well as a great alternative to analog smokes. It really comes down to finding your personal preference. As you continue to vape your preference may change (well, mine did as well as a multitude of other Vapers). My suggestions are based upon my journey and trying to recommend something that would minimize potential future purchases and provide a satisfying vaping experience for the longest time possible. With all that's been said, the OP may find that getting an Aspire Nautilus tank would be all that's needed to get a satisfying vape with their 20 Watt Mod... for now. I still have one myself and still use it ocasionally, although I've increased the air flow by drilling the largest air intake hole larger as well as drilling the coil positive pin air flow larger as well. The OP was asking about a tank that had greater vapor production... it would help if we knew what they had right now. I may have missed it but I don't recall the OP ever saying. All I know is that the OP has a 20 Watt istick Mod that they aren't thrilled with. wow thats alot to take in but im pretty sure i got it now yeah i was a bit confused before. thank you all alot i actully know a bit more now haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonculp Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 13 hours ago, MRSpivey said: Thank you for elaborating and pointing him to Steam-Engine! ... Welcome to Vapor Talk, it is good to have another "Vape Geek" on board! 3 hours ago, vapez said: wow thats alot to take in but im pretty sure i got it now yeah i was a bit confused before. thank you all alot i actully know a bit more now haha Sorry, I can turn a short answer into an essay. MRSpivey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vapez Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 well you explained it well. tank you for taking the time for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicksvilleshick Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 On 2/11/2016 at 2:01 PM, vapez said: yeah i looked at that mod and have heard really good things about it. but i dont like that it has 200w, that is a bit to high for me and a bit over my head. btw i dont mind size Don't be afraid of the wattage, I have the rx200 and I don't go above 75watts. You set the wattage, it doesn't do it automatically. I got it primarily for battery life, it lasts all night at work and then some for me. I'm also using sub ohm tanks that tend to use a bit more juice. I also suggest buying tank/mod combo. I have the rx200 that came with a tfv4 tank and it's a good tank, but I seem to burn thru coils far too fast for my liking, I've only had one last more than a week. But I did just go out and get another triforce for the rx200 this time I got the 30mm one (huge) so I won't have to keep refilling at work. It holds like 12ml vs 5ml like most of the "larger" tanks. I seem to have better luck with the triforce coils, but you don't have as many options. tfv4's you can get quad, sextuple, octuple coils and the triforce is either kanthal or ni200, but they seem to last longer. My other mod is a fuchai also a 200watt box, but the temp control on it doesn't seem programmed right for temp control, I just got temp control working on the rx200 and I had to mess with the TCR settings on it to get it to work right. It's stock nickel mode just doesn't produce on the big triforce ni200 coil for some odd reason. One thing is certain, there is no shortage of choices out there... The market is absolutely flooded with options. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted February 14, 2016 Share Posted February 14, 2016 Just now, hicksvilleshick said: One thing is certain, there is no shortage of choices out there... The market is absolutely flooded with options. And more new ones coming out every day or so it seems. It's hard to keep up with them anymore. jasonculp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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