Hunterman1043 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Greetings! I am a brand new vape enthusiast who is interested in building my own coils. I was looking over the internet and I couldn't really find answers to my questions which is why I have come here. I currently own a Cartel Boss Limited Edition mechanical mod with the Efest IMR 26650 3.7V 4200mAh battery. On top my tank/coil is the Aspire Atlantis sub-ohm tank with a resistance of 0.5ohms. If I am going to be rebuilding, I would like a setup that can get that low of a resistance with the same or bigger sized tank. Also being a novice in rebuilding, I would prefer to have a tank that is more forgiving for misfortune. My budget is around $100. Edited January 13, 2015 by Hunterman1043 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Welcome.I really like the stillare a lot!http://m.ebay.com/itm/like/281369685258?lpid=82&chn=ps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishguy1123 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 First, since you mention you're brand new to vapeing, do you know how Ohms law works? Off the top of my head the kanger sub tank might work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Smith Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 kayfun V4 clone all the way. great for newbs to advanced. Love the fact that you don't need to drain the tank anymore to access the build deck incase you need to rewick, adjust, or just feel like making a new build... here is what it looks like when you access the build deck with a full tank. (upper section/tank is on the left, build deck is on the right) and the tank sitting on my magneto mech mod: adjustable airflow, adjustable juiceflow, top fill, dual coil ready, handle whatever setup you feel like building. the setup in the first picture is a simple single wick-dual coil build using 32g wire. 5.5 or 6 wraps each... (1.6ohm by themselves, or 0.8ohm as a pair) jasonculp and Compenstine 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) First, since you mention you're brand new to vapeing, do you know how Ohms law works? Off the top of my head the kanger sub tank might work. I'm trying to grasp my head around it. I'm a college student studying technical art so it's out of my scope as an artist. Lol From my understanding it's the lower the resistance, the lower the power draw? Idk if I'm anywhere in the realm of being close with that. I've heard a lot of bad things about the Kanger tanks as a friend of mine who has a Provari said every time she has used a Kanger (3 different tanks) it always leaked. I'll definitely check out the kayfun clone.... Are the clones pretty reliable? Edited January 14, 2015 by Hunterman1043 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeF Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 One suggestion I would recommend, get a grasp of ohm's law before rebuilding. This will help keep things ultra safe and get your head wrapped around what you are asking. If you just jump in without an understanding of ohm's law, drastic things could happen. Lower resistance= Higher power draw. i.e. .5 ohms @ 4.2v = 8.4amp and 35watts and 1.2ohms @ 4.2v= 3.5amp and 14.7watts. Being 4.2v is your battery at full charge. That however does not remain constant in a mech mod. Another thing you have to keep in mind is the battery's constant discharge amperage. If your battery for example is rated at 10A constant discharge amperage your pretty close with the first example above. But if it is rated say at 20A then it would be safer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Before you buy an RDA or an RTA, make sure you buy a quality ohm meter to test your builds before firing it up on your mod. The next thing to do is to get a battery that can handle the low resistance coils you want to build. Safety first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Safety safety safety!!!!!! Tam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) http://www.amazon.com/Efest-IMR-26650-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00NYEDHS6 This is the battery I am using. I'm pretty sure it's handling the low resistance of the atlantis tank pretty nicely.... After 4 days of vaping on and off during the day, I still have yet to charge it and getting strong clouds. Edited January 14, 2015 by Hunterman1043 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Smith Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 20A battery which is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBlack Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 One suggestion I would recommend, get a grasp of ohm's law before rebuilding. This will help keep things ultra safe and get your head wrapped around what you are asking. If you just jump in without an understanding of ohm's law, drastic things could happen. Lower resistance= Higher power draw. i.e. .5 ohms @ 4.2v = 8.4amp and 35watts and 1.2ohms @ 4.2v= 3.5amp and 14.7watts. Being 4.2v is your battery at full charge. That however does not remain constant in a mech mod. Although your advice is sound, you'll never vape at 4.2V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Yea it says 20A / 50A... Is that the range of amperage? Like don't go above 50, but not below 20? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishguy1123 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Generally that would mean 20amp continuous 50amp pulse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishguy1123 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I might suggest you check out a site called steam-engine.org. It has a range of info and calculators to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Wow thanks! You learn something new every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Wow thanks! You learn something new every day.You will learn so much here...these guys know their stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Mr Smith was talking about clones and suggested the kayfun v4 clone. I've noticed that the clones are a lot cheaper and accessible than the "real" heads. Are they trustable? What materials are best? Should I count on a head that has a combination of materials or just stick to glass and stainless steel? Who makes better clones or are most clones reputable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Also does it really matter what type of wire/cotton I use and the diameter of coil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Kanthal and organic cotton is your best bet.the diameter is something you can experiment with.Check out rip trippers on YouTube! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Thanks yea I've been watching taste your juice or whatever that show is called for awhile. I like it, he's very informative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-20mm-13-75-Resistance/dp/B00C8H5ZFI This? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Thanks yea I've been watching taste your juice or whatever that show is called for awhile. I like it, he's very informative.Not sure if I've heard of that one.I'll check it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunterman1043 Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 His channel is called pbusardo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBlack Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Generally that would mean 20amp continuous 50amp pulse. I laugh at the 'pulse' rating. Never have I ever seen any evidence of it in the load testing I've done over the years. I also find the assertions that pulse tests better cuz that's how we vape silly. Lets look at this pulse test. Does this high amp "pulse" occur during the few milliseconds (the width of the trace?), Samsung now lists their pulse at less than a second I guess in high end cordless tools this may come into play, punching at frozen screws. One thing it shows is the amp rating means nothing with these 'new' brands that have shown up with their exorbitant claims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishguy1123 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I personally don't pay attention to a pulse rating, but he was asking what the numbers meant. Hunter, I strongly suggest you wait to buy anything until you have a good grasp of how everything works together. When using a mechanical mod the coil resistance is key to how you like to vape. Is this your only/first device? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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