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Advantage of APV over Mech-Mod?


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Lately I have been seeing the draw of a good APV... just like using my MVP 2.0 with my tanks or Russians, every hit is consistent because the Wattage or Voltage is the same every time I press the button.

When using my mech-mods, every hit is a little weaker than the last (technically), because the battery is providing a tiny bit less Voltage/Amps on every hit. And, since my RTA's taste best when my battery is in the 3.8-4.0V range, that means I'm charging/swapping batteries a bit more often, and the first few hits on a fully charged battery are a bit strong because I'm pushing the Wattage higher than my juice prefers....

With a good APV, I could dial-in 3.9V and enjoy a consistent vape and get more out of the battery before having to recharge/swap, which would be perfect for my RTA's! (if that is the case with an APV?)

Don't get me wrong, I love the simplicity of my mech-mods (and the beauty of the styles), but I do enjoy consistency of vape, too.

So, my question is this... Does the APV put more strain on the battery, causing them to be swapped out just as often as I find myself doing in my mech-mods? Does the APV shorten the life-span of a battery? Comparing apples-to-apples, I mean... say using the same RTA with 1.2 Ohm coil... NOT comparing apples-to Buicks by comparing an APV running a KPT2 @ 1.8 Ohm, to a quad-coil RDA @ 0.15 Ohms :D

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in all honesty I don't see any more or less strain between the two but then again Iv never properly tested batteries. I like that on my sigelei 100w set to 15watts on my nautilus utilizing a 1.8 ohm bvc will last 2 days. though I switch to an rda and crank it to 50watts vape time drops quit a bit...lol

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Yeah, I didn't think (with today's battery and chip-set technology) that there would be any noticeable strain put on the batteries by an APV... unless it was a really bad DNA chip clone, maybe?

I don't mind using the mech-mods for my RDA. For the most part, that is only an hour or two, from the comfort of my recliner, so the battery drain is not enough to worry about... I just pop the battery back on the charger when I finish dripping. (I'm not an all-day dripper)

Mostly for my Russians, that I want regulated output. I use them more and more through the day, and once the battery gets below 3.8V, I find myself swapping batteries (going through 3 batteries every 2-days... or 10-11 battery swaps per week?). I'm perfectly happy with my MVP or iStick for use with my Kanger/Aspire tanks (the Russians just look so top-heavy on the iStick, lol)

I guess now comes the task of finding an APV that I like... or buy a DNA-chip and build one, lol

For now, I'll just keep swapping batteries more often in my mech/RTA combo...

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Yours is the same conclusion that I have came to. I love how simple the mechanicals are, but I am really enjoying the versatility of my electronic boxes. I can go from tank to RDA and just push my up button until it gets where I want it. I can build a 1.5 ohm dripper and push it as high as I want, or dial it back for tanks. If i don't like a build, I am not stuck with rebuilding. I can up the power, or cut it.

I also love the steady power. It doesn't fluctuate much from start to finish. One thing about this though is you have to watch the firmware. According to some the iStick will reduce the power ouput at about 2/3's charge. People think this is a battery saving method.

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Well, I was going to pick-up another iStick yesterday, but something told me to hold-off and look for a decent APV that uses 18650 batteries.

Based off Joe's suggestion (on another thread), I did some digging on the IPV-mini. 30W, floating top-pin, solid-construction, uses a good chip-set, and most importantly (to me)... uses 18650 batteries :)

So, this fits and exceeds my requirements, and now I won't be buying a VTR anytime soon (if ever)... because I can use the IPV-mini with my Russians, full-size Nautilus tanks, AND an RDA (without having to cut off a retainer ring, or be limited to 15W, lol). If I ever need more than 30W, I can always step-up to a Sigelei 100+

I won't be tossing away my mechanicals, and will likely buy another (or four, or six, lol), and I'll likely pick-up another iStick (or MVP 20W if the price is right) as another back-up for my back-ups, but a quality, regulated box-mod will certainly keep me happy with consistent hits, every press of the button!

Now, to find a black one "in stock", and at a reasonable price....

101vape.com only has silver ones, but I've not found anything to beat the $49.99 + $2.99 S+H price-tag, so I may be buying silver instead....

Edited by Earthling789
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Based off Joe's suggestion (on another thread), I did some digging on the IPV-mini. 30W, floating top-pin, solid-construction, uses a good chip-set, and most importantly (to me)... uses 18650 batteries :)

It is the closest thing to hitting my specifications out there too. I just wish it was a bit mini-er.....

I have decided that I am happiest with a tank and don't really need over 20 watts of power. I still have my mechs and my ipv3 and drippers. The reality of it is that I do 95% of my vaping on the go and I like the taste from my Nautilus/Delta better than I do RTAs and Drippers. I understand that there is much more flavor from Drippers and RTAs, but I prefer the taste of my juice from a tank!

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I know the feelings about tanks, flavor, etc....

I have some juices that taste fantastic in Kanger tanks, one juice that tastes best only in a Nautilus, and a couple that are heavenly in an RTA but taste like wet socks in a KPT2 :evil: ... Rarely do I build any coils that require more than 20W, and anything more than 12-15W in my AeroTank or Nautilus would just cook the juice :)

The IPV-mini is not exactly "mini", I agree, but I think it will serve me well for quite some time... and if I need smaller portability, I have my MVP, iStick, and a few eGo's still kicking...

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From my experience with the Vamo and a Nautilus at 1.6ohm. I get a consistent vape for 1.5 days before switching batteries(Efest 18650 / 2500mah / 35A). Not sure what a mech mod would do. I don't own one yet.

No reason to overpay for a crap name like Efest on your batteries, those you have are simply over-wrapped LGHE2s.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Efest+18650+%2F+2500mah&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XLG+he2+18650&_nkw=LG+he2+18650&_sacat=0

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