Earthling789

Yeah @Walt, I said that tongue-in-cheek, with a hint of sarcasm...  I have full faith that every politician with a vested interest in upholding their cash-cow of tobacco taxes, will fully rebuke this study and tout it as tainted or bias... and sweep it under the rug!  The author of the study will likely be drawn-and-quartered on the capital lawn... or at least fired....
Which is why I forwarded the link (and text) to my Representatives and Senators at the state and Federal levels, as well as my state Attorney General, local and state Health Departments, and a few hundred of my friends.  CA says breathing causes cancer, so a study from CA that says second-hand vape has NOTHING in it that is harmful (moreso than normal air)... is HUGE info, and must get out there!

I read this in a blog called Vaping Post this morning. Thought it quite interesting seeing that it was done in the good ole USA. (I wanted to copy/paste the link and my computer wouldn't cooperate.)
Air Sampling confirms secondhand vapor is harmless
Results obtained from an air sample of a small non-ventilated vape shop, clearly indicate that the amount of toxic substances present in the air where a lot of vaping is taking place, are of insignificant levels.
The California Department of Public Health has been carrying out air sampling in vape shops throughout the state, as part of its initiative to determine the health effects of second-hand vapor exposure.
Earlier today in his blog, Public Health Expert Dr. Michael Siegel pointed out that the results for this report were obtained from a relatively small and non-ventilated vape shop, where many of the employees and 13 customers were actively vaping while the sampling was taking place, hence what would be considered a situation presenting a high level of exposure to second-hand vapor. However, given all these unfavourable conditions, the results still reported no dangerous levels of exposure to any hazardous chemicals.
The main results of the air sampling go as follows :
Nicotine: Not detected Glycidol: Not detected Formaldehyde: 7.2 ppb Diacetyl: Not detected using standard method 2,3-Pentanedione: Not detected using standard method Acetyl butyryl: Not detected using standard method Acetoin: Not detected using standard method Acetone: Not detected Ethyl benzene: Not detected m,p-Xylene: Not detected o-Xylene: Not detected Toluene: Not detected Acetaldehyde: Not detected Acetonitrile: Not detected alpha-pinene: Not detected Benzene: Not detected Chloroform: Not detected d-Limonene: Not detected Methylene chloride: Not detected Methyl methacrylate: Not detected n-Hexane: Not detected Styrene: Not detected Finally putting fears about formaldehyde to rest?
Dr. Siegel pointed out that the level of formaldehyde detected, is consistent with the levels normally found in indoor and outdoor air levels under baseline conditions, adding that the only other chemicals detected were ethanol (alcohol) and isopropyl alcohol. “This study, although conducted under very high exposure conditions in a small, non-ventilated vape shop with many employees and customers vaping and clouds of vapor visible, did not document any dangerous levels of exposure to any hazardous chemical. Nicotine exposure was essentially non-existent. Formaldehyde exposure was no different than in many indoor and outdoor environments at baseline. Acetone, acetoin, other aldehydes, toluene, benzene, and xylene were not detected. Chemicals that have been associated with “popcorn lung” were also not detected by the standard method.” stated Siegel.
No justification for governments to ban vaping
“This study adds to the evidence that under real-life conditions, ‘secondhand vaping’ does not appear to pose any significant health risks.” concluded the public health expert. He added that whilst he himself has been behind many of the smoking bans that took place, based on this current evidence he fails to see a reason as to why governments should ban vaping in public spaces. “With regards to vaping, I just don’t see any reasonable evidence at this time that it poses any significant health hazard to bystanders.”
 
 

I'm with @Tam... I like the first "VT" logo, not the distressed one, too... they'll be "distressed" after a couple years wearing it anyway  .  
The large logo on the front is good, but perhaps also offer one with a smaller logo on the left breast and the "Vapor Talk" logo (3rd image) on the back?
The gals like their totes... and guys like their hats (I'd love a hat with Velcro adjustment or "one-size S/M, L/XL" solid back).  Other good swag might be water bottles, battery cases (the zippered ones like eFest), and vinyl stickers (like window stickers for the car) ?

I'm with @Tam... I like the first "VT" logo, not the distressed one, too... they'll be "distressed" after a couple years wearing it anyway  .  
The large logo on the front is good, but perhaps also offer one with a smaller logo on the left breast and the "Vapor Talk" logo (3rd image) on the back?
The gals like their totes... and guys like their hats (I'd love a hat with Velcro adjustment or "one-size S/M, L/XL" solid back).  Other good swag might be water bottles, battery cases (the zippered ones like eFest), and vinyl stickers (like window stickers for the car) ?

The vanilla bean ice cream tastes like it sounds... like creamy vanilla ice cream.  To me, Bavarian cream is the same flavor.
As for putting VG in the freezer, it won't hurt it all all, and it will not freeze solid (unless your freezer is set for -40), nor separate out.  It will be thick as molasses, though if you try to use it while cold  

The "practical" difference is the amps a battery can safely discharge without venting or failing. Most quality batteries are 20A, but some are rated and tested higher. It is their tested value for continuous discharge that is important. Their pulse value is usually higher, but means little since you are not using them in a pulse capacity, in other words you are holding the fire button longer than one second [emoji4]. Typically, batteries with lower capacity (mAh) have higher discharge ratings, and those with huge capacity have lower amp rating... But it's a generalization, not a rule.
 
The batteries I listed above are proven and tested to 20A ratings, and most of us here on VT know and trust them daily!
 
Sent from my XT1094 using The Vapor Talk mobile app
 
 
 
 

http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/business/biotech/sd-me-vaping-conley-20170415-story.html
 
Sent from my XT1094 using The Vapor Talk mobile app
 
 

http://www.sandiegouniontribune.com/business/biotech/sd-me-vaping-conley-20170415-story.html
 
Sent from my XT1094 using The Vapor Talk mobile app
 
 

Welcome!
You are correct, the tank is getting warm because of the heat generated by the heating of the coil at high watts... think of the heat of a 100W light-bulb, and you're going hotter than that... in a very confined space...
As for batteries getting warm, yes they do that as they produce power (discharge).  I do not know the brand "Avatar", and probably would not trust them to be true 20A batteries.  If it were me, I would invest in a QUALITY pair of Samsung 25R (green wrapper) or LG batteries (HE2, HG2).  The ones I mentioned are TRUE 20A batteries and larger capacity (2500mAh or 3000mAh).  I regularly use (and trust) these batteries and never have them get warm on me, even when pushing a single battery over 60W... or dual batteries over 120W.

Welcome!
You are correct, the tank is getting warm because of the heat generated by the heating of the coil at high watts... think of the heat of a 100W light-bulb, and you're going hotter than that... in a very confined space...
As for batteries getting warm, yes they do that as they produce power (discharge).  I do not know the brand "Avatar", and probably would not trust them to be true 20A batteries.  If it were me, I would invest in a QUALITY pair of Samsung 25R (green wrapper) or LG batteries (HE2, HG2).  The ones I mentioned are TRUE 20A batteries and larger capacity (2500mAh or 3000mAh).  I regularly use (and trust) these batteries and never have them get warm on me, even when pushing a single battery over 60W... or dual batteries over 120W.

Welcome!
You are correct, the tank is getting warm because of the heat generated by the heating of the coil at high watts... think of the heat of a 100W light-bulb, and you're going hotter than that... in a very confined space...
As for batteries getting warm, yes they do that as they produce power (discharge).  I do not know the brand "Avatar", and probably would not trust them to be true 20A batteries.  If it were me, I would invest in a QUALITY pair of Samsung 25R (green wrapper) or LG batteries (HE2, HG2).  The ones I mentioned are TRUE 20A batteries and larger capacity (2500mAh or 3000mAh).  I regularly use (and trust) these batteries and never have them get warm on me, even when pushing a single battery over 60W... or dual batteries over 120W.

Welcome!
You are correct, the tank is getting warm because of the heat generated by the heating of the coil at high watts... think of the heat of a 100W light-bulb, and you're going hotter than that... in a very confined space...
As for batteries getting warm, yes they do that as they produce power (discharge).  I do not know the brand "Avatar", and probably would not trust them to be true 20A batteries.  If it were me, I would invest in a QUALITY pair of Samsung 25R (green wrapper) or LG batteries (HE2, HG2).  The ones I mentioned are TRUE 20A batteries and larger capacity (2500mAh or 3000mAh).  I regularly use (and trust) these batteries and never have them get warm on me, even when pushing a single battery over 60W... or dual batteries over 120W.

First of all... WOW TAM!  You pulled the trigger on a Baby Beast!  Congrats!
Yes, there is a difference in heat produced from sub-ohm coils.  Honestly, If I'm going to go below 0.3 Ohms, I drop to 3mg Nicotine or less, and use Temp Control.  A 0.25 Ohm Kanthal coil is much hotter (to me) than a 0.2 Ohm SS coil at the same Wattage.  And some tanks I've used (The Arctic comes to mind) would set me on fire even at the low power of 16-20W using their 0.2 Ohm ceramic coil.  When all things are equal (type of col), lower Ohms and higher Wattage do tend to maintain the same vapor/heat sensation, although you do have to open the air and reduce your Nicotine because Nicotine absorbs faster as you lower resistance (heat it faster/hotter).  1.8 Ohm and 18mg Nicotine are virtually equal to 0.3 Ohm and 3mg... although to get the same vapor and heat, you do have to increase power to the lower Ohm coil... obviously  Nicotine absorption and heat are not exactly linear progressions, but they are close enough for gov't work  
I don't have a Baby Beast (yet), so I can't give better advice, but my first thoughts are the usual... longer drip tip, lower Nicotine, higher VG, more air, slower/faster draw... and the best advice is to use TC!  Dialing down the temperature is a real key for me when using the Subtank Minis.  When I'm using 0.15 Ni200 coils, I can crank up the heat to 500F (prefer around 450F), but when I use 0.2 Ohm SS coils, I find the exact same heat and vapor can be achieved at 380F.  I've wrapped my own SS coils at 0.15 Ohm and can push those above 400F, but not much more before it feels like I'm drinking scalding hot tea   If your mod has TCR mode, you can use TC with almost any coil.  What type of wire are the Q2 coils made from?

I went from 24 to 18 in the first month, and was hovering at 12 by the first vaping anniversary.  Right now I'm bouncing between 3 and 9, depending on the tank/coil I'm using, and even the 9mg is strong enough that I take a few hits and don't touch it for hours at a time.
My fiance isn't willing to come down from the 12mg I have her at right now... but she's only been vaping almost 2 years.  She "thinks" she's vaping 15mg, but that's only because I've not changed the labels on her bottles... Bwahahahahaha   Personally, if she's happy with her 12mg, she can stay there as long as she wants  
I don't think either of us will quit vaping anytime soon... we both enjoy the flavors and we both enjoy the little bit of nicotine...  

Darn good idea, Walt!  Wish I'd thought of that  

I went from 24 to 18 in the first month, and was hovering at 12 by the first vaping anniversary.  Right now I'm bouncing between 3 and 9, depending on the tank/coil I'm using, and even the 9mg is strong enough that I take a few hits and don't touch it for hours at a time.
My fiance isn't willing to come down from the 12mg I have her at right now... but she's only been vaping almost 2 years.  She "thinks" she's vaping 15mg, but that's only because I've not changed the labels on her bottles... Bwahahahahaha   Personally, if she's happy with her 12mg, she can stay there as long as she wants  
I don't think either of us will quit vaping anytime soon... we both enjoy the flavors and we both enjoy the little bit of nicotine...  

Number one... did they also give you a battery?  If so, what brand/model is it?  If they didn't give you one, I would suggest you buying a pair (at least) of Samsung 25R (green), LG HE2 (red), or any of the other "good" batteries out there from Samsung, LG, or Sony.  There are other good ones, but those are the ones I trust.
As for tanks, a perfect starter, that will grow with you will be the Kanger Subtank Mini or Toptank mini... they're the same tank, but the top-tank can be refilled without removing it from the box-mod  

You can find them on sale, but expect anywhere from $4-8 each to be an average price, depending on the brand and where you buy them from.  I've bought most of my batteries online, but I also picked up several LG HE2 from my local pharmacy (in the medical supplies section - they are commonly used in C-pap devices and other things that require battery back-ups or portability).  When I find them on sale for $8-12 per pair, I try to stock up a few extra pairs... at least once per year.  Their life-span is measured in charging cycles, not years, so expect most every (quality) battery you buy to last 300 cycles, minimum, before they begin to show longer charge-times and begin to hold less and less charge.  Many of the newer batteries boast 500-1000+ cycles, but they've not been out long enough for anyone to have proven they last 2-4 years of daily use, lol.
Be wary of buying batteries from eBay, or overseas online stores.  If the price is too good to be true, it probably is.  Batteries are a huge target for knock-offs or re-wrapped crap.  Sony batteries (for a while) were the worst... for every 10 you'd buy, at least half would be clones/re-wraps/knock-offs.
The batteries sold by the VT store are guaranteed to be authentic.  
As mentioned above, always label your batteries so you know when you bought it, as well as a letter or number so you can maintain rotation.  All of mine get a date of purchase and a letter-code so I know which one to use next.  If you use a mod that require 2 or 3 batteries, they should always ... always... be kept married, and rotated inside the device.  For those, I label them with a letter for the married sets, and two numbers.... first number tells me it is a 2 or 3 battery set, and second number tells me the order... A31,  A32, A33, B21, B22, etc. (you'll never find a B34 or X23) so I can keep the A's together, B's together, and rotate their position inside the device after each re-charge cycle.

Number one... did they also give you a battery?  If so, what brand/model is it?  If they didn't give you one, I would suggest you buying a pair (at least) of Samsung 25R (green), LG HE2 (red), or any of the other "good" batteries out there from Samsung, LG, or Sony.  There are other good ones, but those are the ones I trust.
As for tanks, a perfect starter, that will grow with you will be the Kanger Subtank Mini or Toptank mini... they're the same tank, but the top-tank can be refilled without removing it from the box-mod  

@Tam is correct.  The Kanger mini boxes have a spring-loaded pin, but it doesn't take much for them to get gummed-up from leaking juice or dirt.  Once they are "sticky", they won't spring back into proper position to make contact with the tank, especially if the tank's center pin is short.  Remove the battery to prevent shorts, and then lift the center pin using tweezers or gently "pry" it up using a small screwdriver wedged into it from the side.  It only takes a tiny bit to make contact again, so don't try to pull it all the way out

(Reference: Mark is a carpenter)  

I've cleaned drop-in coils using pure-grain alcohol such as Everclear, moonshine, or Vodka over 100 Proof.  The higher and purer the alcohol content the better, though.  Let them soak overnight, repeat as necessary, then air-dry for another overnight period, and they are rejuvenated, but not quite good-as-new.  This is mostly to remove flavor from wicks, but it will do a decent job cleaning the coil of crud.  
Seriously though, with the coils I use being so cheap (and rebuildable), I don't even bother cleaning them anymore... I just grab another and toss the old one into the "rebuild later" pile.

I've cleaned drop-in coils using pure-grain alcohol such as Everclear, moonshine, or Vodka over 100 Proof.  The higher and purer the alcohol content the better, though.  Let them soak overnight, repeat as necessary, then air-dry for another overnight period, and they are rejuvenated, but not quite good-as-new.  This is mostly to remove flavor from wicks, but it will do a decent job cleaning the coil of crud.  
Seriously though, with the coils I use being so cheap (and rebuildable), I don't even bother cleaning them anymore... I just grab another and toss the old one into the "rebuild later" pile.

I've cleaned drop-in coils using pure-grain alcohol such as Everclear, moonshine, or Vodka over 100 Proof.  The higher and purer the alcohol content the better, though.  Let them soak overnight, repeat as necessary, then air-dry for another overnight period, and they are rejuvenated, but not quite good-as-new.  This is mostly to remove flavor from wicks, but it will do a decent job cleaning the coil of crud.  
Seriously though, with the coils I use being so cheap (and rebuildable), I don't even bother cleaning them anymore... I just grab another and toss the old one into the "rebuild later" pile.

If your flavor is PG based, then yes, adding 10% flavor to 90% VG will give you a 90/10 VG/PG mix.
If you're adding any nicotine, then it is best to use a calculator like the one @Walt suggested, so you can make sure you get things exactly right.  But if you're shooting for zero nicotine, you can use simple math to get what you want.