Rixter

I just bought an Aspire Triton and RBA head to see if it would be a good tank to give to my dad to use on his Heatvape Invader Mini. Since he's never sub-ohmed before, I installed the 1.8Ω coil head into the base and filled it up, and it vapes really well. I'm impressed, and I'm sure he'll love it since it's a top-fill tank.
After vaping on it for a while, I decided to put a cotton wrapped vertical nickel coil in the RBA head to use in TC mode, but I don't know if I can swap out the heads while there's still juice in the tank. Has anyone tried swapping heads in a full tank before?
I'm going to go ahead and answer my own question for anyone interested.
Obviously, you'll need to leave the fill/vape dial in the vape position or your juice will spill out under the drip tip. With the tank upside down, as long as the juice level is below the juice flow holes on the internal stem, you'll have no problems swapping coil heads without having to drain the tank first.

This information seriously highlights the need for good high-amp batteries to power variable wattage mods in combination with sub-Ω tanks. Kudos jasonculp.

I just wanted to post this so everyone could visually see what is going on with your Variable Wattage Mod in relation to battery drain.
With a Mechanical Mod as our battery drains, the Amps go down.  With a Variable Wattage Mod as our battery drains the the Amps go up.
We can't calculate battery draw based on the ohms of the coil in our atomizer like we do in a mechanical mod, because of the way the board works inside of the device.
In a mechanical mod we use ohm's law to calculate the draw on the battery.  For example 4.2Volts / .353Ohms = 11.9Amps or 4.2Volts2 /.353Ohms = 50Watts.
In a single battery Variable Wattage Mod we have to calculate both sides of the board separately.  The only thing that is constant is the power (watts).
The board also uses power during the voltage conversion, so we normally assume it is 90% efficient. 
The way to calculate this (still using Ohm's law) is: 50Watts / 3.2Volts (the lowest voltage you want to run your battery) X 1.1 (adding 10% for a 90% efficient board) = 17.2Amps
*For a dual battery mod in series you would use 6.2Volts
Here is a chart to help visualize it:

 
Here is a link that will do the math for you.  Steam Engine - Battery Drain
 

i found the missing piece woohoo
 

I received my Wismec Presa today from GearBest, and first look is impressive!  I got the silver one (anodized Aluminum) rather than the black powder-coat, because I hoped it would not fade or chip color as badly.

Nice packaging, battery arrived fully charged, and the APV included a very long USB charging cable (standard micro-USB) and an eGo adapter so you can use eGo threaded tanks.  The unit has a built-in battery (2600mAh), goes up to 40W (or 10V) in 0.1W increments.  It is switchable from VW to VV, and the screen flips to read from the left or right (a nice feature).  The adjustment buttons are easy to reach and operate, yet their placement makes it very difficult to accidentally press them as you use it.  The buttons as well as the fire-button are also lockable so you cannot adjust or press the fire button without unlocking.  There is also a spring-loaded 510-pin, which so far has connected perfectly with all of my tanks.  The battery also (supposedly) fires coils down to 0.2 Ohm, which will be tested with my Arctic Tank.
The only thing I've not been overly impressed with (out of the box) is the fire button is not perfectly smooth, but I think it may smooth-out as it is used?
I'll be using this daily for a week or two to give it a real work-out and see how well the battery does and how long it lasts between charges.  I'll also be using it with different tanks, including a sub-ohm tank (or two).
Compared to my Cloupor (slightly taller than Cloupor, but same width and roughly same weight)

With a full size Nautilus attached

How in the Hell... did you get a pic of my Juice maker!

You can not determine size by a photo with out something to measure it against. What I see is the center post is missing.... I would come to the conclusion that your son may have tried to refill it, and lost the center tube and didn't notice. When he set it all together it may have stayed together for a bit, but yes just would fall apart.
Check the top cap for threads. If there are no threads it is pressure fit and you will need a new tank. even if you find the center tube it may not ever be the same and may leak.

I really like it.  I bought it to go in the SauceCode.  It is super easy to build on and the airflow is good.
I would not recommend it for Ni200 builds though.  The design causes the leg going up to be short while the leg going down is very long.  This causes the long leg to glow red, when vaping, and I am not comfortable with.
It works great with Kanthal though.

 

I like the Kanger Subtank Mini. I'm using one on a temperature control mod and the replaceable Ni200 (nickel) coils last a long time. YMMV.

I like the Kanger Subtank Mini. I'm using one on a temperature control mod and the replaceable Ni200 (nickel) coils last a long time. YMMV.

I like the Kanger Subtank Mini. I'm using one on a temperature control mod and the replaceable Ni200 (nickel) coils last a long time. YMMV.

the vapor rater is a new mapping and review system for vapor shops - https://thevaporrater.com/ - please use it and let me know what i can do to make it more useful.  
you can search for shops by zip code or city/state name or street address.  i've also got a review system on there for overall rating, product selection, pricing, and customer service.  if you love or hate a shop, please find it on the directory and give it an honest review.  the more reviews there are, the more useful this site will be.
the idea is that if you're out of town or move to a new place, you can use this directory to find shops near you and you can decide which one to visit first based on what other vapers think about the shop. 
i did my best to only import listings of vapor shops, but some tobacco and hookah shops snuck in there, if you see a listing that's not a real vapor shop, please let me know.  when you're on the page of any vapor shop, on the right side of the page, a little under the address and phone number, there's a button that says "Report Bad Listing".
thanks for your time.
 

Cigarettes smell so awful to me now that even if my PV died, I don't think that a cigarette would even be an option. For me, it would be like running out of Cool-Aid and choosing to drink sewer water.

I've thought of that very question many times since I quit smoking and began vaping (April 8, 2012). I suppose the answer to the "when to stop vaping" question is: whenever maintaining your gear (recharging, refilling, safeguarding, etc.) stops being enjoyable and becomes a hassle to you...when it begins to outweigh the enjoyment you get from the act of vaping, it's probably time for you to quit.

Cotton has a flash point of 420°.

As always Sweet Vapes rocks on customer service. They are sending the right coils and postage to send the others back, all within an hour of sending them an email.
 

I successfully recoiled several of the CL heads before acquiring some of the CLRs...there's a few vids on YouTube on how to do it.

Got my e-Vic and Invader mini V2 today Whoot. Only problem is Sweet-Vapes sent the wrong coil heads. I wanted the CLR heads so I could rebuild them, they sent CL heads. Arrrrg... I emailed them about to try and clear it up and took a pic.This is the first time they messed up an order. LOL Oh well I'm sure they will make it right S-happens.

Cigarettes smell so awful to me now that even if my PV died, I don't think that a cigarette would even be an option. For me, it would be like running out of Cool-Aid and choosing to drink sewer water.

I've thought of that very question many times since I quit smoking and began vaping (April 8, 2012). I suppose the answer to the "when to stop vaping" question is: whenever maintaining your gear (recharging, refilling, safeguarding, etc.) stops being enjoyable and becomes a hassle to you...when it begins to outweigh the enjoyment you get from the act of vaping, it's probably time for you to quit.

Cigarettes smell so awful to me now that even if my PV died, I don't think that a cigarette would even be an option. For me, it would be like running out of Cool-Aid and choosing to drink sewer water.

You're right, but since I've gone from 24 to 3 using the same gear (battery and atomizer), I figure it's just a matter of time now. 

Cigarettes smell so awful to me now that even if my PV died, I don't think that a cigarette would even be an option. For me, it would be like running out of Cool-Aid and choosing to drink sewer water.

I've thought of that very question many times since I quit smoking and began vaping (April 8, 2012). I suppose the answer to the "when to stop vaping" question is: whenever maintaining your gear (recharging, refilling, safeguarding, etc.) stops being enjoyable and becomes a hassle to you...when it begins to outweigh the enjoyment you get from the act of vaping, it's probably time for you to quit.