BirdDog

I am waiting on some new Kanger Dual Coils with the Japanese cotton for the glass EVOD's and KPT3. They must be fairly new to the game because I couldn't find any reviews on them. The reviews I read on the supplier sites were not well received. I think most of the complaints were about burnt tasting liquids. Most of the people that tried them were probably novices and might not be aware that the cotton needs a good priming before use. No where on the description does the supplier say to prime. I have been watching a lot of review videos about the new sub tanks with the cotton coils and they all say to prime before use. So I will give them a good prime before hitting that button.

I am waiting on some new Kanger Dual Coils with the Japanese cotton for the glass EVOD's and KPT3. They must be fairly new to the game because I couldn't find any reviews on them. The reviews I read on the supplier sites were not well received. I think most of the complaints were about burnt tasting liquids. Most of the people that tried them were probably novices and might not be aware that the cotton needs a good priming before use. No where on the description does the supplier say to prime. I have been watching a lot of review videos about the new sub tanks with the cotton coils and they all say to prime before use. So I will give them a good prime before hitting that button.

I am waiting on some new Kanger Dual Coils with the Japanese cotton for the glass EVOD's and KPT3. They must be fairly new to the game because I couldn't find any reviews on them. The reviews I read on the supplier sites were not well received. I think most of the complaints were about burnt tasting liquids. Most of the people that tried them were probably novices and might not be aware that the cotton needs a good priming before use. No where on the description does the supplier say to prime. I have been watching a lot of review videos about the new sub tanks with the cotton coils and they all say to prime before use. So I will give them a good prime before hitting that button.

Tam, what exactly is it doing? Is it dial for the fill and vape thing locking up?
Never mind! I will just go read your other post!

My legs are too short for my knees to reach the steering wheel. Trust me, I have tried. 

My legs are too short for my knees to reach the steering wheel. Trust me, I have tried. 

Okay, I finally remembered to take pics. This is only half of the kabobs I made before grilling.

 
And this is the whole meal after it was grilled along with a cucumber, tomato salad and some onion fried rice. 

I have the 30w version and have not experienced any problems. There have been reports of the 30w version also auto firing. Not as many reports as the 50w version, but there are probably more 50w versions out there than the 30.
I was going to ask a question about the 510 connection other day about it being sealed. Remember way back when it was important to have batteries that were sealed? It seems with all the improvements to devices, it has become a question or concern from the past. It looks like the past is coming back to haunt us again.
I watched a couple videos where the presenter has taken apart the devices. I guess you can buy replacement boards from Fastech now. Not that I would want to replace the board or the battery for that matter. I would just buy a new unit. The Isticks use the 18650 batteries. These are the non IMR versions of the battery. The internal board/chips is the safety for the unprotected battery. But you mechanical geniuses already know this.
I took a loop and got a pretty good view of the connector. There is a nice rubber looking gasket surrounding the pin. I did notice a very small gap between the gasket and pin on one side. I don't think it is much of a problem, unless there is a large leak that is left unattended for an extended amount of time. Because the pin is spring loaded, it makes me wonder if this could be part of the problem. Can the gap become larger when when a tank is attached? Most of the videos didn't show a close up of the wire connecting to the pin. But from what I could tell, the wire has a shrink wrap like plastic around where it connects. I have come across this type of cover with other electronics, toys are a good example. The wire has to exit that plastic cover, so I am guessing there is a gap there too allowing liquid to leak through the connector and down the wire to the board.
Some people have reported that large tank leaks have run down the side of the device and inside the buttons. The board is right under the buttons. There is not much protection from the view screen cover to the board. Mostly these reports have to do with the 50w version. The 30w has a nice lip on the upper deck that hangs over the buttons. This was added to make a larger area for large tanks to sit. I can see where the lip would help to keep the liquid from dripping over the side and leaking into the buttons.
I guess the best precautions we can take is to keep the device clean and check frequently for leaks. I would also advise not to leave the tank attached when not in use for extended amounts of time. Remove the tank while charging. This is a no brainier for veterans of course. But noobs with one device and one tank, might not know this rule. They plop it on the charger at night with the tank attached and go to bed. This is one old rule we forget about when explaining safety to new vapors.
Thank you for reading my long drawn out research and thoughts! Love you guys!

I have the 30w version and have not experienced any problems. There have been reports of the 30w version also auto firing. Not as many reports as the 50w version, but there are probably more 50w versions out there than the 30.
I was going to ask a question about the 510 connection other day about it being sealed. Remember way back when it was important to have batteries that were sealed? It seems with all the improvements to devices, it has become a question or concern from the past. It looks like the past is coming back to haunt us again.
I watched a couple videos where the presenter has taken apart the devices. I guess you can buy replacement boards from Fastech now. Not that I would want to replace the board or the battery for that matter. I would just buy a new unit. The Isticks use the 18650 batteries. These are the non IMR versions of the battery. The internal board/chips is the safety for the unprotected battery. But you mechanical geniuses already know this.
I took a loop and got a pretty good view of the connector. There is a nice rubber looking gasket surrounding the pin. I did notice a very small gap between the gasket and pin on one side. I don't think it is much of a problem, unless there is a large leak that is left unattended for an extended amount of time. Because the pin is spring loaded, it makes me wonder if this could be part of the problem. Can the gap become larger when when a tank is attached? Most of the videos didn't show a close up of the wire connecting to the pin. But from what I could tell, the wire has a shrink wrap like plastic around where it connects. I have come across this type of cover with other electronics, toys are a good example. The wire has to exit that plastic cover, so I am guessing there is a gap there too allowing liquid to leak through the connector and down the wire to the board.
Some people have reported that large tank leaks have run down the side of the device and inside the buttons. The board is right under the buttons. There is not much protection from the view screen cover to the board. Mostly these reports have to do with the 50w version. The 30w has a nice lip on the upper deck that hangs over the buttons. This was added to make a larger area for large tanks to sit. I can see where the lip would help to keep the liquid from dripping over the side and leaking into the buttons.
I guess the best precautions we can take is to keep the device clean and check frequently for leaks. I would also advise not to leave the tank attached when not in use for extended amounts of time. Remove the tank while charging. This is a no brainier for veterans of course. But noobs with one device and one tank, might not know this rule. They plop it on the charger at night with the tank attached and go to bed. This is one old rule we forget about when explaining safety to new vapors.
Thank you for reading my long drawn out research and thoughts! Love you guys!

Are you guys talking about the Kanger Protanks when you use the abbreviation KPT? If so, I have the original Protank and the Protank 3. There is a big difference between the airflow on those. The original has a tighter draw than the Protank 3. The EVODS fall in the middle when it comes to airflow. The Protank 3 and the EVOD Glass can use the single coils. I do not have the mini versions of the protanks.

Yes I hate the wobblies!

The EVOD has a glass version now. It still has aluminum exterior, but the inside tank is glass. It also comes with a removable drip tip that is metal, not plastic. It is much easier to clean now that the top comes off.

Okay I think I get it. When comparing it to the old cig a-likes it makes sense. I know those didn't produce squat. One of the reasons why we all started stacking batteries in the first tube mods. So an EVOD glass tank with a dual coil is considered a beginner device now? If this involves math, I am out. Thank you for your replies! I promise not to try sub-ohm.

Okay I think I get it. When comparing it to the old cig a-likes it makes sense. I know those didn't produce squat. One of the reasons why we all started stacking batteries in the first tube mods. So an EVOD glass tank with a dual coil is considered a beginner device now? If this involves math, I am out. Thank you for your replies! I promise not to try sub-ohm.

Ha! I did the same thing! I was looking around at the other forums, some new, some old and their traffic looks to be pretty slow. Even the section in Reddit seemed to be lacking discussion. Most of the forums seemed to be over filled with supplier sections. The social areas were small and pretty hard to find. Even took a look at ECF. Wow! talk about a sterile layout.
I do wonder if the B&M's are making an impact. Not a bad theory.

It is time that I finally start to drop my nic levels. As of August 24 it will mark 6 years as a vaper. Holy Shit, 6 years of not smoking! I won't lie, I have had a few cigarettes and a couple cigars in those 6 years. The cigars were enjoyable, the cigarettes just reminded me how awful they were.
I started at 16/18 mg and it kind of stuck. My initial goal was to step down and finally give it all up. Well...6 years later and I am still vaping the same mg as when I started. I guess I hung with the higher level because I could go 8 hours or more without vaping. But when I got home, I vaped like a freight train. Recently, I have noticed some physical side effects of vaping the higher nic level, like tiredness and light headed. So I decided it was time to try stepping down. My plan is to take this slow and not put myself on a time schedule.
A few years ago, more like several, I got my cousin to make the switch. This was when cig a-likes were still the only option. She did it for awhile and went back to smoking and then just quit altogether. Long story short, her current boyfriend smoked, she complained, he got into vaping and she picked it up again. She is visiting and ran out of eliquid. I wanted to visit some of the local shops and see what they had. She has a sub-ohm tank, I think the nautilus. That sucker is so noisy! I wanted to chuck it out the window! But I appreciated the cloud.
Anyways, we visited a shop and I picked out some liquid from their house lines. I made a split second decision to pick up a lower nic level, 12 mg. Baby steps. I have been incorporating it into my daily vape rotation. So far so good! I am actually vaping it more, but I think it might have to do with the flavor. The liquid I chose is USA made but not in house. Probably something re-branded. But I thanked them for not mixing in the store and the sales guy had a big smile. So (Rixter), I think he appreciated the comment.
Happy, soon to be, Vapeversary to me and FINALLY taking the plunge to stepping down! I really hope I can do this!
 

It is time that I finally start to drop my nic levels. As of August 24 it will mark 6 years as a vaper. Holy Shit, 6 years of not smoking! I won't lie, I have had a few cigarettes and a couple cigars in those 6 years. The cigars were enjoyable, the cigarettes just reminded me how awful they were.
I started at 16/18 mg and it kind of stuck. My initial goal was to step down and finally give it all up. Well...6 years later and I am still vaping the same mg as when I started. I guess I hung with the higher level because I could go 8 hours or more without vaping. But when I got home, I vaped like a freight train. Recently, I have noticed some physical side effects of vaping the higher nic level, like tiredness and light headed. So I decided it was time to try stepping down. My plan is to take this slow and not put myself on a time schedule.
A few years ago, more like several, I got my cousin to make the switch. This was when cig a-likes were still the only option. She did it for awhile and went back to smoking and then just quit altogether. Long story short, her current boyfriend smoked, she complained, he got into vaping and she picked it up again. She is visiting and ran out of eliquid. I wanted to visit some of the local shops and see what they had. She has a sub-ohm tank, I think the nautilus. That sucker is so noisy! I wanted to chuck it out the window! But I appreciated the cloud.
Anyways, we visited a shop and I picked out some liquid from their house lines. I made a split second decision to pick up a lower nic level, 12 mg. Baby steps. I have been incorporating it into my daily vape rotation. So far so good! I am actually vaping it more, but I think it might have to do with the flavor. The liquid I chose is USA made but not in house. Probably something re-branded. But I thanked them for not mixing in the store and the sales guy had a big smile. So (Rixter), I think he appreciated the comment.
Happy, soon to be, Vapeversary to me and FINALLY taking the plunge to stepping down! I really hope I can do this!
 

I am going to lock this post. The OP spammed the forum (to reach the post count required) in order to post this classified ad.
Vapor Talk is not responsible for private transactions between members. You may PM the OP if you are interested. Buy at your own risk.

My car is 20 years old and has about 110,000 miles on it. Here is a list why I love my old car.
1. It is old, no one will want to steal it.
2. It is a stick shift, good luck stealing it.
3. Small gas tank, cheap to fill.
4. Bright pink color, can't lose it in a parking lot.
5. No car payment.
6. Cheap insurance.
7. No auto, shift on the fly 4 wheel drive.
8. No power steering, great upper body workout.
9. Engine compartment isn't full of all that computer crap, everything is easily accessible.
10. It has an ashtray and cigarette lighter.
The downsides to my old car.
1. Soft top, does not stop thieves.
2. No more stereo or speakers. Thank you thieves, may the 20 year old tape deck and speakers line your pocket book.
3. The trim is starting to come off.
4. 4 wheel drive eats gas
5. Parts may be hard to find in the long run. Still cheaper to fix than a car payment.

I received the Hawaiian Spam Cook Book as a gift for dog sitting the other day. I love it! Pretty sure there was a recipe that involved ramen in there.

4 yrs agO my ride was a 91 s10 PU before that an 85 T bird before that was a 75 F250  Now I drive a 2000 Silverado 1500 If I ever win Lotta I will be driving an F350 4 door Diesel Full blown space age interior and 4wd

Not having payments is nice.
Vehicles driven daily
2005 Dodge magnum all options 100k+
1990 GMC 4X4 350ci, 5speed manual, manual windows, cassette deck, paint going bad, 240k+ miles, still going strong.
2000 FXDX Harley Davidson.
 
Vehicles not driven very often
1981 Eldorado
1972 Firebird
1974 Norton 850 Commando
 
All paid for. Never buying another new car.
 

Kudo's BirdDog!  I'll never own another "new" car... only those "new to me"   And, I'll limit my expenditures to $2500... if I can't buy a decent car for that, I won't buy it!!  I love not having a car payment, love not having higher insurance premiums, and love cheaper registration costs...
My 2008 Fusion has 185K on the odometer, and in the worst shape (slipping tranny, bubbling dashboard, door handles, paint fading/chipping/rust) of all the cars in my driveway.
The rest of my fleet:
1993 Ford Probe SE - 124K (zero issues, like new)
1994 Ford Probe SE - 149K (minor fender ding and clear-coat failure on hood)
1996 Ford Probe GT - Mazada engine swap, 40K, needs re-painted, but only due to clear-coat failure
2005 Chevy Freelander - 110K, the whole thing is falling apart... cheap interior, motor is the only good thing about it
2002 Hyundai Elantra - 275K, and still going strong... has some rust in the fenders, but everything works on it
1974 VW Beetle - 86K, floor pans rusty, but runs like a new one
1969 Ford F250 - 24K on factory rebuilt 390 modified, rust in bed, but will go anywhere, anytime!
Plus, 3 Honda street-bikes, which are ridden regularly...
Insurance on all of them is dirt-cheap... I pay more for tags/registration every year than I pay for 3 or 4-months of insurance...
My family thinks I'm crazy for having all these in the driveway, but you never have to worry about that to drive when one needs a repair, repairs are cheap (and I do them myself), and when a family member needs to borrow a vehicle... guess where they come first?

I miss the days of no payments.... Frame rotted out of my 99F250 last summer, gotta love all the salt in the winter up here. The 08 I replaced it with will be paid off way sooner than the bank would like.

Isn't it awesome not having a car payment?  My truck is 11 years old. I can fix everything on it. Cheap insurance, cheap registration, the only thing I really pay for is gas but I don't mind. 
I know im facing getting another EV or hybrid one day (wife has one) but until then I'm enjoying the freedom.