Ok so I have been vaping for a while now and I mainly prefer rda's over anything else. I have tried all different kinds of cotton and each one has there own pros & cons. I have tried cotton bacon which is really good minus the mild funky taste on fesh cotton, and minus the minor break in period. Japanese koh gen do is a good cotton as well. I just got fed up with trying to measure the right size strips of cotton for my needs, it also has a slight break in period and a slight funky taste to it.

I have also tried cotton candy cotton, now this cotton is alot better than the others I mentioned. It does not have a funky taste to it at all and it only has a very very short break in period. For this just rewick your build, juice it up and fire it a couple of times. Only until the cotton almost goes dry, then just rejuice and you are good to go. Also this cotton doesn't have nowhere as bad a taste on a dry hit, as compared to others.

But by far the best cotton I used over the years is Cotn Threads, this stuff is relatively cheap @$6 for a bag of 20 pieces. It baisically looks like little short shoe strings, with orange plastic tips on each end of each piece of cotton. But let me tell you this stuff is awesome! Just grab what you need, feed them through the coils, trim, tuck, juice and you are good. Zero break in time and zero funky taste to it at all. (Disclaimer, this stuff is designed for 3mm diameter coils!)

I order mine from https://wudbx.com/products/cotn-threads

I usually order 4 bags at a time and it usually lasts me about 2 months or a little less, depending on how much I am vaping. 4 bags will run you $23.96 and you get free shipping on orders over ten dollars.

There are some other brands of cotton I have tried over the years, but I can not for the life of me remember the names....lol

Hi,

I desperately try to make this build to work.

Here the issue, have prebuilt coil, perfect fit. I try to wick them many time today, watch many youtube video, etc, and at each time, it leak. If it don't leak, the flavor is horrible, dry hit.

I've tryied japanese cotton, organic cotton and bacon v2, all cotton type make the same result.

When it's leak, i've tryied too to add more cotton. Seem to come from the airflow the leakink. After added some cotton, the leaking issues is resolve, but the flavor is not there, and dry hit.

I'm desesperate, i try to get off my tfv12 (coil cost so much,) to rdta, but no luck.

Thank you very much!

Alright so back in my early days of coils building I bought a spool of 22g Ni200 - and it's done not much since due to its ridiculously low resistance. Now I'm bored and thinking what to do with it... other than stupidly long 4.0mm ID coils.

Have read before people actually getting some sort of temp control when wrapping it with Kanthal. Have some 24g sitting here that I might play with- anyone had luck with TC with a mix? Obv the temps will be a bit out but be better than doing nothing.

Also is there anyway to work out a mixed materials TCR? I've had a bit of luck with TCR on my eleafs before (TC average at best on them in NI,TI,SS modes) with twisted mixes.

Any other ideas welcomed too. Will post outcome. Cheers guys [emoji23][emoji106]

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

I do not put wicking material (cotton-bacon or natural cotton) under my coils. I've been watching a few builders on YouTube putting the cotton under the coil. I was wonder if anyone else does this? Maybe some pros. I'll attach a pic of how I wick

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wire cross sectional area calculation

The n gauge wire's cross sercional area An in square millimeters (mm2) is equal to pi divided by 4 times the square wire diameter d in millimeters (mm):

An (mm2) = (π/4)×dn2

SWG to mm conversion chart

Wire cross sectional area calculation

The n gauge wire's cross sercional area An in square millimeters (mm2) is equal to pi divided by 4 times the square wire diameter d in millimeters (mm):

An (mm2) = (π/4)×dn2

SWG to mm conversion chart

I may try again tomorrow with 20 wraps to see if I can get that 0.10 that I need to use it safely. It was a dual coil build with the 16 wraps. 

What gauge is anyone having success with? Was also thinking of maybe switching to TI I hear that takes way less wraps. 

I just picked this up Saturday, very well built. Anyway, When I started getting dry hits. I have changed my wicking from barley touching the deck to hear wicks. (Organic cotton balls by the way). The only solution I have found is to loosen the the top cap about every 3 vapes and you see the air bubbles rising to the top, which causes flooding sometimes. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Halfcam79

I've been using a Heatvape Invader Mini 50W with an eGo ONE 1.8ml tank (rebuilt .15Ω Ni200 coil/JOC wick) as my ADV for about 6 weeks now, and it's been a great setup for me. This is the best vape I've had to date because now, every time I hit the fire button, I get a consistent, satisfying vape. I've not had a single dry hit (even when accidentally running my tank bone-dry a few times), and I've also not noticed any "coloring" of my juices' flavor from the nickel coils (tastes like chicken...er, Kanthal). In addition, the sheer number of coil-wraps required to meet my mod's minimum TC load using such a low-resistance wire makes for a coil with a lot of surface area from which to provide vapor.

Nickel coil resistances can be a little dodgy from build to build, but that's easily compensated for by increases/decreases in the power and temperature settings of the TC mod. I can pretty much adjust the mod's settings to make each new build perform like the last build, so nickel's (apparent) inconsistency is not really that much of an issue.

For rebuilding my eGo ONE's coil head, I make 12 wraps of 28g Ni200 around a 3mm Kuro coiler, and then tug a little on the leads to get a slight space between the wraps. That usually puts me in the vicinity of .15Ω, which is comfortably above the .1Ω minimum TC resistance of my mod.

Vaping with temperature control technology has been pleasurable for me at least, and as more and more reasonably-priced and reliable devices pop up on the scene, I feel like it might just change the way vapers enjoy vapor...

...but that's just my opinion...what's yours?

http://www.wicknvape.com/

Pbusardos test results:

Now lets get down to brass tacks. What you will be looking at are images from my Celestron Microscope. These are images of both pads taken side by side. I will not reveal which one is which until some discussion is made. I also want to repeat Pbusardo's wicking test with both brands.

Lets start with the price:

From KGD Store per 60ct bag Price:

$12.00 + shipping (vis UPS Ground only) $16.42

Total $28.42

From MUJI Store per 120ct bag Price:

$4.95 + shipping (via Fed-x only) $5.95

Total $10.90

As you can see the MUJI pads are much less and you do get more for your money. The question is, are the KGD worth the higher price in the end. Do the KGD have a more superior wicking capability than the less expensive MUJI brand.

Pad Size:

KGD 3 1/8" x 2 3/8"

MUJI 3 1/2" x 2 3/4"

Thickness:

KGD 3/16"

MUJI 1/4"

Color: (Same)

KGD Off white with brown specks

MUIJ Off white with brown specks

Both pads have a layer on one side that is noticeably thicker or more rigid than the other. For this test I will refer to that as the top. The other side is less rigid and the fibers are not as tight, this side I will refer as the bottom. Both can be separated from the pad leaving the soft inner fibers exposed.

This is the image of the top of both pads set side by side:

More Magnification

This is the image of the bottom of both pads set side by side:

This is the image of both edges set side by side:

This is the image of both pads inside showing the alinement of the fibers:

It is very hard to tell them apart until the last image. Seems to me the fibers in one pad are more straight than the other. After seeing this, I want to test if this has any bearing on how they wick. It is said that the pads wick better because the fibers run more parallel with each other. This is unlike your standard organic cotton ball where the fibers are all different directions.

I will be doing this test over the next few days. I'm going to do mine a little differently than Pbusardo did his. I will be using small glass vials and can not immerse them all at the exact same time. I will however be taking pics at set intervals of 1 hour from the time I start each test. I will be testing each with 100% vg, 100%pg, and a 50/50 blend to see the difference in the wicking of all 3. I will post those results in this thread when they are completed.

If I build 2 coils, and run them in the same tank, on the same mod, but with different ohm values, which is better?  By better, I am asking vapor producion, flavor, and economy.

1.5 ohm coil, 30 watts is 6.7 volts and 4.7 amps.

  .5 ohm coil, 30 watts is 3.9 volts and 7.7 amps.

Both are totally different coils, but at the same wattage.  Which is better?

If the wire is the same, say 26 gauge and diameter is 2.5 mm:

1.5 would take 12 wraps

  .5 would take 4 wraps

I know this isn't really practical, but wouldn't they vape totally different at the same wattage?

I am sure the lack of sleep and total brain drain I have had for the last few weeks is making this too confusing, and somthing I shouldn't even worry about.  A good example of this is the SubTank Mini.  If you run the .5 coil at 30 watts and the 1.2 coil at 30 watts does it really make much of a difference?

As an afterthought I should mention I plan to use these on an Istick 50 watt.

http://www.fluidvapes.com/drago-100-organic-cotton-roll

$5.99

http://www.thebodyshop.com/skincare/accessories/organic-cotton-pads-x-50.aspx

My first setup was a Twisted 28 ga, dual coil, sub ohm build. It was great, but I really don't like the juice I was running in it. I normally run it in a dripper and I like it sparingly, as a treat, not as a constant vape.

Today I recieved a package from Comp at Fadora Vapor. It has some Tiger Wire and some premade Tiger Wire coils in it that he built for me. The coils came packaged in tiny plastic tubes with a silicone cap to keep them safe. Nifty! We had been talking about running (2) 3ohm coils for a finished 1.5 ohm setup. Comp does not have this RTA but the coils fit perfectly. When I checked the ohms 1.47.... Nailed it! The flavor is so much stronger than the Nautilus. At the same wattage it is a much cooler feeling vape, but has much more flavor. I just ramped it up to 15 watts WOW! I have not pushed it any harder. It is kinda poping and crackling a bit, but I have only wicked this thing twice, and have no idea what I am doing. I am now playing with the airflow to see if I can get it right!

Who knew?