I love VGOD!

Hey guys- decided it's time to look into the squonk and mech world - so I have a Geekvape Athena arriving later today- what should my first build be? Not really overly phased by blowing huge clouds (seems like somewhat of a pissing contest tbh) more after flavour.

It comes with the Athena RDA and although the build deck would allow me to fit a single coil in the guts the airflow would be off as you can't rotate it away from the coils (or where it thinks the coils should be). Also have a Dead Rabbit I can load up a bigger single coil if I want to (have some pre made SS and N80 fused clapton wire) if that's going to be my best bet...

And yeah- reason it's taken me so long to check it out is they do scare the **** out of me. So safety paramount. Will aim my build around the .25+ mark as I have a couple of different batteries I want to put thru it.

I've bought one (d'oh thought I had ordered 2 but seems not...) VTC5A as from what I've gathered it seems to be one of the safer batteries around but also have a few 25r's that I might have to swap out here and there while my lonely Sony is on charge... Until she gets a couple of friends that is

Any ideas guys? Sorry for such a long post but baby steps all the way with this Betsie.

[emoji106]🤞

Thanks so much.

Hi. I recently purchased the Magneto Mod by Smok Tech, and I was going to hook up my Aspire Nautilus tank up to it. Is this safe to do? I did some reading but I wanted to ask other vapers this question before I test it out. I love vaping and want to do it responsibly.

THANKS in advance.

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Just got done hand polishing the Flagship.

I think i did good for my first time.

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I know I still gotta work on my airy clouds getting thicker, but this was my first build using parallel 26g...lol

Looking at getting a Praxis v3 Authentic in order to get around an issue involving the lock ring wearing out on my Vapetech Pegasus Clone allowing it to fire when sat down vertically even with the lock ring in the locked position. When I was able to find a site with them in stock, I noticed there are 3 metal options (Stainless, Brass, and Copper). I was curious as to if the differences in the metal makeup of the mod itself is purely aesthetic considering the buttons and switches are composed/plated of the same materials or if there are differences in the performance of the mod as well. Obviously, if the performance is different I will be going with the copper version, but if the differences are only in looks, I'm leaning more towards the Stainless version which would allow a wider assortment of RDA's that match along with keeping my hands from constantly smelling like pennies. I have absolutely loved my Pegasus, but the constant worry of the lock ring mechanism failing and the mod going off in my pocket or anywhere I set it down has led me to take a look at mods with recessed buttons and the Praxis's dual-action button looks like the way to go along with keeping voltage drop to as little as possible.

On a side note, I was curious about the button getting hot on the Praxis due to the firing button being spring-loaded rather than using magnets. My Munstro Mech button used to get too hot to press and I found a magnetic firing button fixed that issue.

Any info at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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So I recently traded a limitless matte black setup for a copper able and modfather with a carbon fiber sleeve. I also recently bought a blem lyfe copper able with a copper good and galaxy chuff and sleeve. I use a .05 build and I love it! Share your mods with me!

Hello! I recently got the panzer from a friend and it's not firing at all and I'm not sure why. I'm using a goon rda with an 18650 battery and no matter what I do it will not fire. I've tried it with a few different RDAs and it won't work with any of them. The battery and the rda works with all of my other mods, none of which are RDAs. What could be causing this to happen? I've tried adjusting the 510 pin in the top inside of the mod and the pin on the rda. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

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I tried a friend's Kanger Dripbox and really liked it. So I ordered myself one and a few boxes of the rebuild-able coils. It's supposed to do 60 watts, and of course uses 18650 batteries. So here's question #1... I already have a few LG HG2 20A 3000mAh batteries that I use for some other things. Would those be adequate to run the Dripmod, or should I get a few with higher Amperage?

Question #2. My friend was using a Kanger replaceable deck/coil in his with the Kanger .2 Ohm coil build, and it seemed a bit too warm for my liking, even with the air flow wide open. Maybe it's just newbie vape sensitivity moving to an RDA. But Since the Dipbox came with a very nice rebuild-able Velocity style center deck thingy, I'm thinking of building my own coils, and shooting for somewhere between .5 and .7 Ohms for a cooler vape. Recommended resistance for the Dripbox is .2 Ohms. So stepping up to .5 or higher would still be safe, correct? That should also slightly increase battery life as well.

Question #3. Is it safe to use Stainless Steel wire for coils with this device? Or should I stick to Kanthal? I've studied up and know you need the real advanced Mods to run Titanium, and Nickle type coils, but unsure if Stainless would be possible to use with the Dripbox, so it's better I ask first.

I'm going down a Rabbit Hole I figured I wouldn't be interested in, but man oh man does Zeus E-Juice's  Banana Cream Pie taste WAAAAAAAAAAAAY better out of my friend's Dripbox than it does in my T18!!

• Fuhattan
• Nemesis
• Caravela Clone
• Hades

I'm looking at these mostly for the purpose of adding them to my vape stash and because at $10 each they are hard to pass up, though I do intend to occasionally use whatever I end up getting.  Obviously the Fuhattan is a Manhattan clone and the Caravela clearly states that it's a clone, but I'm not sure about the Nemesis or the Hades.  In any event, if anybody has any input on these four mech mods, it would be appreciated.