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Orginal kanger subox nano starter kit


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I was recently unemployed so I am having to go to the devices I have had on a show case because they are just to pretty to use. But when all the coils are quickly running out to my Protank 2s, 3s and my Aerotanks I have got to start using all the equipment I have coils to. I am having 2 separate problems: Before I lost my job I bought 3 of the Orginal kanger subox nano starter kits. The Mod parts of the kits are fine but the tank to everyone of them leak. 1 fell apart when I opened it. I know without looking at them it will be impossible for anyone to tell me what to do about it but I was wondering if anyone else had these problems with these kits. I have changed the coils out but no help. I bought 2 Provari over a year ago if not longer. It has been so long since I have used them it took me a while just to figure out how to put the batteries in but I finally figured it out. The only big tanks I have to put on them is Eleaf  MELO with 0.3 ohm. But when I put the full tank on I get an E1 message. I tried the only operation I know how to do with the Provari and cut it up all the way to 6, as low as it will go and the half way in between. Still says E1. I have had these batteries in the refrigerator for a while but I put them on the charger and charged them until the light turned green. I'm flying through the coils I have left for my Protank 2s, 3s and Aerotanks. The juice is not out of date but maybe I bought a batch of bad ones. I got to where if I caught them on sale I would buy 5 boxes at the time of each. It seems like from the first tank of juice the pull is very tight and the juice tastes burnt. I always let them stand from a day or 2 before I use them after I change the coil. Those coils are 1.8 ohm. I'm using the Eleaf istick TC 40 W with the Protanks and Aerotanks. Any help will be very appreciated. When I post something I push the button at the bottom to the right to notify me of reply's and turns green but I have not gotten reply's in a while. Am I doing it correctly or should I just let it alone and stay red?

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I don't know anything about a Provari, so can't be much help there, but I do know about the subtank nano, I use them every day almost, the only time they leak on me is when I leave them in a hot car. Other than the hot car thing, my nano tanks don't leak. I use a 30PG/70VG mix so that might be why they don't leak, maybe with a thinner juice they might leak.

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I wouldn't be surprised if the Provari won't fire that coil.  It's too low ohm.  I don't think a 2 year old Provari will fire below 1 ohm coil.  That's a guess but I'm pretty sure it won't fire a .3 coil and that's why you are getting the E1 code.

 

 

 

 

That melo tank should fire on the Eleaf although that's probably right at the lower limit. 

Make sure the eLeaf is in power mode and not TC mode.

Sorry to hear about your job. That sucks too.

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Bebop is right... the older Provari won't fire below 1.0 Ohm, so they won't work with any of the sub-ohm coils you have (or want to use). 

I have a couple of the Subtank Nano's, and neither has ever leaked unless it was my own fault... doubled-up o-rings, failure to fully tighten a coil, hot car, etc.... I've been using them for more than a year (along with Subtank Minis) and both have been real troopers with the 1.2 Ohm coils.  One thing to check on those OCC coils is for "extra" o-rings on the base... I've found several with two or more o-rings attached, which means they won't seal properly (and will leak like a screen door on a submarine).

As for the KPT2 (single-coil) and KPT3/Aerotank (dual-coil) coils... I'm quite familiar with the "newer" OCC versions not lasting as long... the older ones with silica wicks would last for weeks, but the newer ones peter-out within 20ml of liquid (about 7-8 tanks) on a good week :(  Since price is a major concern (sorry to hear about your job :( ), the last 1.2 Ohm BDC I picked up were < $3/box from Sweet Vapes or 101-vape, but I'm sure they were on sale or clearance?  Have you tried re-wicking them or rebuilding them (the horizontal versions are fairly easy to re-wick)?

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Your Kbox Nano probably came with the V1 Nano tank that has only 1 air slot, the V2 Nano has 2 air slots, and the Nano top fill also has 2, it is possible you don't have the air open all the way, and that might cause leaking depending  on how hard you draw on it. But like Earthling stated I also never had a problem with the Nanos leaking.

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15 hours ago, Bebop said:

I wouldn't be surprised if the Provari won't fire that coil.  It's too low ohm.  I don't think a 2 year old Provari will fire below 1 ohm coil.  That's a guess but I'm pretty sure it won't fire a .3 coil and that's why you are getting the E1 code.

 

 

 

 

That melo tank should fire on the Eleaf although that's probably right at the lower limit. 

Make sure the eLeaf is in power mode and not TC mode.

Sorry to hear about your job. That sucks too.

Hey Bebop. How have you been doing? It's been a long time.Thank you for your advice. How do I put it in power mode? I did not know those modes existed on the Eleaf. I only know how to cut it up or down. Same thing with the Provari. They are way over my head. All kinds of initials that I guess are settings come up when it is first cut on that I don't have a clue what, how or where to set them except up and down and when I get them to a 4.5 or 6 I don't know how to keep it there . It keeps changing. I have moved since I bought them and I lost their instructions.  Now that I'm not working maybe I can check out utube and see what it can teach me or even the Provari web site.When I put the Melo on the Eleaf it does work but it takes 5 seconds of trying to fire it until it starts. I know that seems petty and I may end up just dealing with it but I thought it wouldn't hurt to try to find a way to vape that I enjoy. Thanks again. Have a great day!

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Hey, All and thank you all for your thoughts sand input. Tam, no It never crossed my mind to put the Protanks or Aerotanks on the Provari. I thought for sure it would blow the coils. Are you still using the Protanks and Aerotanks? I saw the Protank 4 on some site the other day and they look nice. Have you tried them? What is your tank of choice now? I have learned that our taste is alike and it is safe to follow your lead.

FXRich, you could be right about not having the air holes open because I do not like a lot of air, usually as little as I can fix it. I did not know that could cause leaking.

Earthling, I'm not to sharp at how these things are built and I really don't know where the o rings are suppose to be but the company is sending me 2 new tanks to replace the 2 that are shot. When I get them I'm going to pay close attention to how they are put together and compare them to the ones that leak. I also thought about taking them by a local shop to see if they can see what the problem is. I believe the coils I am using for the Protanks and Aerotanks are the older version. I, like you, found them on a great sale so I had 5 boxes of each but they have gone fast. And learning to rewick them. Not talented in that area either. I've been a nurse for 26 years and I think that is the only real talent I have except maybe gardening.

Now I'm going to tell yall something I forgot to mention in my original post that is probably going to make you all say "AWW that's the problem" I purchased these Kanger subox nano starter kits from a site I had never used before but everywhere I looked all the pink and purple was sold out and I found the on a site that also offered them cheaper then I had been seeing. I did not know until 3 weeks went by and I had not received them that they were coming from China and even though they have Kangertech written all over them I'm sure they are clones. I learned a long time ago that when buying Vape stuff you get what you pay for. I had a weak moment. Thanks again for yalls help and if you have not posted with your thoughts yet please do. I can always use more vaping information.

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With the device turned on, press and hold the Menu Button for 5 seconds. This will switch from your current power option to the other. Repeating the process will change it back. 

In VW mode:

The output wattage can be adjusted from 1w to 40w by pressing the up and down adjustment buttons. 

 

Hi Patricia

the menu button is the one in the middle.  The other two are up and down setting

if you are running a .3 ohm coil in that Melo then you will need to set the power somewhere up in the 30 Watt range or higher to get it to work properly.  Hope that helps

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4 hours ago, Patricia said:

Tam, no It never crossed my mind to put the Protanks or Aerotanks on the Provari. I thought for sure it would blow the coils. Are you still using the Protanks and Aerotanks? I saw the Protank 4 on some site the other day and they look nice. Have you tried them? What is your tank of choice now? I have learned that our taste is alike and it is safe to follow your lead.

When I use my older Provari, which is seldom these days, I've never had any problems with using any of the Protanks or Aerotanks on them - I use 1.8 ohm single coils.

Haven't tried the Protank 4 because I've found the one tank that I really like and I've been stuck on them since then. Don't know if you remember back when I used to use the HH.357 exclusively because of the vapor production and the flavor. Could never find a tank that could even come close... until Aspire put out the Triton. The first version was great for two tankfuls and then it crapped out on me and I couldn't get it to work no matter what I tried and how many times I pulled it apart. The Triton 2 (second version), fixed all those problems and I've been using these exclusively since. There are all kinds of different materials in coils, different resistances, etc. but, with my vaping style of mouth to lung and liking a little tighter draw, I stick with the kanthal 1.8 ohm coil.

The batteries I use are the Eleaf iStick 50W for the most part. In wattage mode, I go with around 9.7W - 10.7W depending on my mood. At the lower 9.7W, even chain vaping, I only have to charge the thing once every four days or so because of the 4400 mAh capacity. Just recently got an iPower 80W TC with 5000 mAh capacity that I'm liking a lot. I don't use the temperature control, just in wattage, but that keeps me happy. I like simple.  :) 

Edited by Tam
Can't type correctly, fingers are not cooperating.
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18 hours ago, Bebop said:

With the device turned on, press and hold the Menu Button for 5 seconds. This will switch from your current power option to the other. Repeating the process will change it back. 

In VW mode:

The output wattage can be adjusted from 1w to 40w by pressing the up and down adjustment buttons. 

 

Hi Patricia

the menu button is the one in the middle.  The other two are up and down setting

if you are running a .3 ohm coil in that Melo then you will need to set the power somewhere up in the 30 Watt range or higher to get it to work properly.  Hope that helps

Thanks Bebop. It's amazing I have been using these things for at least 6 months and never used that middle button because I did not know what it was for and I'm so afraid if I go messing with buttons I don't know anything about I will mess the whole thing up. So now I when I press and hold that button it says 450 Ni/F but then it goes right back to setting I have always known which is W, what I assume means watts. That's the one I have always used to make it hotter or cooler. I had bought a box of 0.3 when I bought them and don't know why because I don't know the difference between the 3 choices: Ni 0.15, 0.3 or 0.5. I guess I went with 0.3 because it was in the middle. I have 3 0.5ohms that came with the tanks. When I bought the Kanger subox nano kits I bought a box of 5 Arctic Horizon Tech BTC 0.2 ohms because they were on the page with the kits but they do not fit them. So would you please tell me what that setting should be with the 0.3 ohm coils and the 0.5 ohm coils? Also, do I need to adjust that setting as much as I do the watts setting? That you for all of your advice. I just love my buddies on Vapor Talk.

Bebop I forgot to ask about the settings for Protank 2s and 3s and Aerotanks.

 

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@Patricia.  To be sure I would make sure that you don't have a tank connected when you set the mode. It is possible that the Eleaf is recognizing that you don't have a Ni coil in the tank and won't let you flip the mode.

Ni .15 - this is a coil made out of nickel and is only used in Temp Control mode

.3 and .5 - this is a regular steel coil and is used in VW (variable wattage) mode

when your mod is in Temp Control mode it will display a temperature setting that can be changed up or down.  It will be a group of 3 numbers like, 450 or 375.  Usually somewhere between 200 - 600. When you see that, you need to press and hold the center button to switch to Power mode.  

When your mod is in Power mode it will display a wattage number that is adjusted up or down.  This number will be between 1w - 40w and may show a decimal  like 9.2 W or 25.3 W.  

If your display also shows V (volts) you can use that as a guideline for setting wattage with ANY coil.  So if your using the pro tanks, have your device in Power mode.  It doesn't matter what resistance your coil is.  Use the up or down button to set the Voltage to 3.7.  You will see the wattage number changing too (if your device displays both at same time.)  ignore the wattage number.  Start at 3.7 volts.  

Then as you normally would with any coil, adjust up or down to taste. 

 

If if your device does not display voltage and watts the same time. Then start at 10 W  and adjust up or down to taste.  With a 1.5 coil you will be in the 9W range. With a .5 ohm coil you will be in the 20 W range. With a .3 coil you will be in the 30 W range.

 

hope that helps

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