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Kangertech Protank keeps dry vaping


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Hey guys, I am new to the forum but have been vaping for several years. Started off with ecigs and recently bought an actual vape. I have had it for several months with no issues, changed out coils, cleaned it, rinsed it, took generally what I feel to be pretty good care of it.

Recently though I have had an issue with it always dry vaping. As I usually do, any time I change to a new coil head I give the whole vape a rinse. This time I was kind of in a hurry so I didn't give it a lot of time to air dry but I ran a Q-tip through the Protank and figured the coil head was new so no need to worry there.

First hit tasted a little odd, but I figured I'd just have to give the liquid more time to feed into the coil. Waited several minutes. Second hit was dry, third hit VERY dry, tasting like burnt plastic.

At first I thought it must be a problem with the coil, so I swapped it out for another brand new one. Same problem.

Went back to the coil that I had originally gotten rid of to try to get back to the last known good configuration. Still no good.

Anyone got any ideas? I assumed the coil had to be the problem but now I'm not so sure -- but what else could it be that is causing this?

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Hey guys, I am new to the forum but have been vaping for several years. Started off with ecigs and recently bought an actual vape. I have had it for several months with no issues, changed out coils, cleaned it, rinsed it, took generally what I feel to be pretty good care of it.

 

Recently though I have had an issue with it always dry vaping. As I usually do, any time I change to a new coil head I give the whole vape a rinse. This time I was kind of in a hurry so I didn't give it a lot of time to air dry but I ran a Q-tip through the Protank and figured the coil head was new so no need to worry there.

 

First hit tasted a little odd, but I figured I'd just have to give the liquid more time to feed into the coil. Waited several minutes. Second hit was dry, third hit VERY dry, tasting like burnt plastic.

 

At first I thought it must be a problem with the coil, so I swapped it out for another brand new one. Same problem.

 

Went back to the coil that I had originally gotten rid of to try to get back to the last known good configuration. Still no good.

 

Anyone got any ideas? I assumed the coil had to be the problem but now I'm not so sure -- but what else could it be that is causing this?

So it's obvious it's not the coils it's gotta be the watts or volts you're vaping at.. too high and your cooking the juice too fast to stay on the wick...

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If you're using a Protank make sure the coil assemblies you're using are genuine Kanger. Just like some other popular delivery devices there are generic versions of the coil assemblies all over the place generally at a little bit cheaper price.

If you're using a vw device in vw mode to fire the Protank most if not all of these devices will automatically adjust the voltage to match any changes in the resistance of the coil. In vv mode that doesn't happen.

But if someone's using a garbage generic coil then nothing's going to fix it short of re-coiling/re-wicking it. That opens up a whole lot of potential issues until you get good at it.

Higher percentages of vg in your juice will tend to restrict wicking of the juice leading to dry and/or burnt tasting hits. The higher percentage vg, the worse the juice will tend to wick.

If you are using genuine Kanger coils in your Protank with a decent apv using the same juice you've been using for while and still can't get it dialed in then I don't have a clue.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Standard protank/evod heads come with 2-3 flavor wicks on top of the coil. If you are vaping anything higher then 70/30pg/vg, you could possible experience the dry/burnt vape taste. Easily fixed tho. Pop the center tube off and remove 1-2 of the flavor wicks. Will increase wicking

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  • 5 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I gave up on my protank 2 for this exact reason.

Some of the tips I tried to follow based on my research was flipping the rubber grommet upside down, thoroughly cleaning with vodka, and removing wicks.

The dry hit taste still wouldn't go away (I use a 1300mah EMOW VV battery and 1.8ohms coils) and with fewer wicks I seemed to be getting juice in my mouth.

I replaced it with a new Aerotank MOW and will not look back at a protank product.

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I have nearly a dozen KPT2's in my rotation, and have only had one leak... which turned out to be a bad o-ring on the coil. One of my AeroTanks leaked once too, but turned out that my coil became loosened in the base when I removed it to refill and I didn't think to check the coil for snug before re-assembling.

The number one reason for any tank to leak is bad o-ring seals at the coil or tank itself... without a good seal, the tank cannot maintain vacuum pressure to hold the juice in the tank where it belongs. The number two reason I've found is bad wicks (short, burnt, damaged), which again prevent the tank from maintaining vacuum pressure as well.

Knock-off coils tend to fail faster (or leak more) as well. I received a free 5-pack of knock-off coils when I bought a pair of my KPT2s, and 2 of the 5 lasted less than 4 tank-fulls... I'm guessing the wicking material was a really cheap synthetic? Another thing I've found out... as well as many of the members here... the coils that come with the tanks typically fail faster or leak more often than genuine replacement coils. I have no idea why, but it is true.

Of the genuine replacement coils (1.5 and 1.8 Ohm) that I have used in my KPT2's, all have performed exceptionally well for weeks and weeks... but honestly, I also tend to change them out after they've seen ~20ml of juice (roughly 8 refills). I have pushed these coils up to 15+ tanks-fulls and they were still performing well, but flavor does start to drop off after about 6-8 refills (depending on juice used).

There are knock-off KPT2 tanks out there as well, and a co-worker of mine unknowingly bought one of those (from eBay)... it leaked like crazy! O-rings and tank-glass with imperfections were the cause. I replaced the thin o-rings with better quality, and swapped the tank with a genuine replacement, and no more issues!

Edited by Earthling789
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I have figured out that I don't play well with Kangar tanks. I WANT to use them. I just can't keep them from flooding. They look good and seem to be very high quality. I am up to 5 of them. One did turn out to be a knock off sold as original. I bought it at a B&M that has been accused of this multiple times. I really think with me, it is not a tank or wick problem. I think it is the technique I use when I vape. I paid forward many of my coils, and lent 3 out to other users when they needed them. They had no problems with them. I am keeping them around because I have quite a few used coils and want to rebuild them one day using cotton or rayon.

All of this being said, I also flood my Nautiluses too! I am one of the few people that have holy heck with the new BVC coils for the Nautilus mini. I am having good luck lately. I've been running the same coil for 3 weeks at 11 watts and it is doing great. I have also had them flood in 20 minutes. I am about out of new spares, and am thinking of getting 10 BVC's and 10 BDC's but the dual coils are getting harder to find.

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Jason, you brought up a good point on Kanger tanks... their coils don't do well at very high Wattage or Voltage. The sweet-spot I've found is 3.6-3.9V and no more than 10W. Anything higher, and you tend to fry the wicks (causing leakage or flooding) or char the coils (causing bad tastes).

On my variable Wattage device I use 7.5-9.5 W, depending on the juices I'm using. For a 3.7V eGo, I'm using 1.5 Ohm coils, which draw 9W or 1.8 Ohm coils which draw 7.5W (again, based on the juice).

I've tried to push some juices up to 11W (or higher, using a friend's Vamo), and the juices taste bad, and the Kanger coils tend to crap-out fast!

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Sorry Earthling! Bad writing on my part. I never ran anything over 8 - 8.5 watts except the BVC coils. In fact around 7 on the Kangar tanks. I never really liked the higher wattage stuff back then. I really don't like running running the BVC's at 11 but any less and it seems they flood more.

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